Erica Bigio cruising the crux. On a warm day this...
Description
One of the best gear climbs in the grade. Good pro all the way to the anchors. Looks harder than it is.
Location
Right side of the wall. It is an obvious right facing dihedral in an alcove that starts 20 feet above the trail at the base of the cliff. It looks harder than it is.
Protection
Standard rack with small cams up to 3 Camalot and two each of purple green and red. Chains at the top for lowering when done.
This route had a stream of water running down it when I arrived. Just a heads up. If it has snowed/rained recently, the route may be wet.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree May 12, 2008 rating: 5.9
Nice to be able and spice up the day placing a bit of pro. Added bonus is the no hands rest and bolted anchors found up top. The route can easily be protected with 2" and less. Plenty of placements to choose from.
By Chris Prewitt From: Tucson, AZ Dec 26, 2008 rating: 5.9+
A rarity for Mount Lemmon: a true dihedral crack climb. Terrific stances to make placing pro a breeze. Very fun climbing.
By The Boodge From: Tucson, Az Dec 31, 2008 rating: 5.10-
Amazing route! The gear, stances and climbing are all great. When I started leading trad 2 months ago, I wanted to lead an all gear 5.10 on Mt Lemmon before the end of the year...so this was my first 5.10 trad lead - I finished it at 4:00 pm on Dec 31st. Nothing like waiting till the last minute, right?
One Pitch Wonder!!! Definatly worth the hike for this route. I would say there are too many no hands rests to be a .10. A solid 5.9 lead. Eveytime I climb it, I find differents ways to protect it. Lovely route.
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Jan 18, 2009 rating: 5.10a
nah, it's not 5.9. this is a solid lemmon 10a. best corner on the mountain, imho.
Ive only been climbing on Lemmon for about 6 months but this is by far the most aesthetic route I've done. I love that the moves vary so much...from jams to crimps.