At the top of The Finger. The chains are 8 feet f...
Description
If your legs and brain are still responsive after the hike up to Finger Rock, you might as well climb it. After all that hard work, it'd be a waste not to, right?
The technical route up Finger Rock begins in the western saddle between Prominent Point and Finger Rock itself. The climbing starts up the north-northeast face of the Finger, immediately above the trail's end:
Climb up easily protected flake, past small bulge and cracks, to a ledge with two small trees (~50').
From ledge, continue up easy terrain, past a bolted 5.8 crux to two-bolt rappel station (~30'). The teetering summit block is another ten feet above the bolts.
A single 60m rope will allow for a rap to the ground.
Extreme exposure and scary, shifting rock will likely make your summit experience a short one. But hey, at least your legs and nerves are trashed for the brutal, three hour downhill slog that lies ahead! Happy trails!
Protection
A few medium sized cams (0.5-1.0 camalots) and a set of nuts.
For a much longer route to the top of Finger Rock, you can start down and left of the standard route. Climb a long pitch or two up easy rock passing some relic pitons after a chimney section (hard to find). Walk across a thin rock rib to join the standard route at the top of the first pitch at the tree. This is a more adventurous, less direct, and scrappier route.
This climb made for a great day with a very climactic topout. A few things we learned that were different than what we'd read prior to our ascent: Three hours approach time is underrated even for fit parties and beautiful weather. There may have been some established trails at the terminal section of the approach in the past, but we did not find them. The hillside to the base of the Finger has degenerated into a torn-up weave of false trails, washes, and rockfall. This section was more troublesome to scramble than the actual roped climb. The climb of the Finger, itself, is actually two pitches (not one) with well-established belay stations. There is a camouflaged register near the chains (before the final couple moves the very top.) The last stretch to the "skateboard" above the chains is not as precarious as previously described. Overall this made for an amazing day with friends and the rewards were well worth the effort.
the astonishing approach and spectacular 'summit' far outshine the unremarkable technical climb. early spring is the best time to seek this adventure. more info can be found here:
To lighten the load and for a more speedy ascent, all you really need is a 60' length of rope, one #4 cam, and one quickdraw. You can 4th class it to the ledge with the trees on it "watch for loose rock". From there its only 25' to the chains.
Finger Rock
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