Finger Rock (Standard Route) 

For a much longer route to the top of Finger Rock, you can start down and left of the standard route. Climb a long pitch or two up easy rock passing some relic pitons after a chimney section (hard to find). Walk across a thin rock rib to join the standard route at the top of the first pitch at the tree. This is a more adventurous, less direct, and scrappier route.

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO FOUR FREAKIN STARS BABY!!!!!!!!!1111111111111111ONEONEONEONEONE

This climb made for a great day with a very climactic topout. A few things we learned that were different than what we'd read prior to our ascent: Three hours approach time is underrated even for fit parties and beautiful weather. There may have been some established trails at the terminal section of the approach in the past, but we did not find them. The hillside to the base of the Finger has degenerated into a torn-up weave of false trails, washes, and rockfall. This section was more troublesome to scramble than the actual roped climb. The climb of the Finger, itself, is actually two pitches (not one) with well-established belay stations. There is a camouflaged register near the chains (before the final couple moves the very top.) The last stretch to the "skateboard" above the chains is not as precarious as previously described. Overall this made for an amazing day with friends and the rewards were well worth the effort.

FA (probable) Herb and Jan Conn late 1940's while they worked at Hacienda del Sol.

the astonishing approach and spectacular 'summit' far outshine the unremarkable technical climb. early spring is the best time to seek this adventure. more info can be found here:

http://www.climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_html/page120.html

http://www.localhikes.com/hikes/fingerrock_8520.asp

To lighten the load and for a more speedy ascent, all you really need is a 60' length of rope, one #4 cam, and one quickdraw. You can 4th class it to the ledge with the trees on it "watch for loose rock". From there its only 25' to the chains.

for people who aren't crazy i would recommend half a rack, 10 slings, and a couple lockers to establish an anchor on the ledge with the trees.

also, this climb made me happy where i pee.

For anyone comfortable with solo alpine-ish rambles, this makes a great training outing. If approached as such, here are a couple thoughts...The crux is by no means 5.8, but a single move of 5.5 or 5.6 at most on positive edges with a small ledge immediately below; it could very feasibly be downclimbed, eliminating the need to bring a rope/harness and allow one to go as light as possible...or, one could carry a few double-length runners to rig a swami and clip the bolt for a bit more peace of mind...again, merely suggestions for those comfy with such outings. A fun outing overall, but pretty lackluster climbing to a sweet vantage.

Super sweet vantage that is!

Didn’t even need the #4. three quickdraws did the trick. Great climb! The falcons will put on a show for you at the top. Take a wrench, bolt on chains was finger tight. And the summit log is almost full.

When we climbed Finger Rock in spring, 1957, there was a note signed by Herb and Jan Conn still on the summit.

Guess Rick gets another trophy for Az FA climbing knowledge!

That's an awesome piece of history Don!
Thanks.

I actually called Jan C. 12 or 13 years ago to talk about things. I had a great chat and she sent off a terrific letter back with more details. She assumed it was the FA but pretty obvious landmark for someone to stumble up before Herb and Jan hit town.

I soloed this route at least 4 years ago and it's the weeks of pulling out cactus needles I remember the most. That and my very stoned decent in the dark:)