The first feature of the climb, the left-leaning corner is spectacular. It is steep and protects very well. The challenge is placing the gear because you will probably be in a hard layback most of the way up. Even though SQII says this climb is a 5.9, I would be surprised if most people thought this section was easier than .10a. If you disagree please submit your rating.
After this section, prepare for challenging thin face. The moves to get to the bolt are tough and chances are your last piece of pro is not where you want it to be. I wanted to go straight, but the moves looked tough so I traversed right 5 feet or so and then went up. I lowered off of the bolt. If you choose to continue, the route goes left at this point and there are some more tough thin moves on run out ground. It looked liked there was a crack for some small gear about 10 feet above and left of the bolt. I am not sure what the very last part of the climb is like, but I suspect it is not as hard. There should be an easy walk off.
This route felt old school and heady. It felt much harder than Seventh Sojourn at Faded Rock even though they have the same rating in the guidebook.
Location
In the middle of Chimney Rock, walk to the right of FIUTT until you see a very clean left leaning corner. Start at the bottom of the corner.
Protection
Cams to #2 Camalot and some nuts. Smaller stuff is more useful.
Chimney Rock
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