Venus' Flytrap And Environs 

FA:  FA: Unknown Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.8 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 90 feet Views: 283 page views Submitted By: andy peter tretiakoff on Nov 18, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The 5.8 all gear variation of Venus' Flytrap.

Description 

The crux of this route is at the top. It is airy but well protected by #3 and #4 Camalot.
Venus' Flytrap is a climb described in "Steigers Guide" as a neglected route with variations that follow cracks on the narow west face. Pg. 79. of the 1985 John Steiger guide (Climbers Guide to Sabino Canyon and Mount Lemmon Highway)

Location 

This route is located on the west end of "Chimney Rock" on the downhill side. This area is visible when driving up the road and accessed by walking left past "Georges Buttress" following trail carefully crossing some broken slabs. Scramble 4th class boulders as the trail then contours right towards the west end of "Chimney Rock" being careful to not dislodge rocks onto the road!
Approach time approx. 10min. from the base of "Georges Buttress." This area was cleaned up with the help of Christian Rodenbeck, Robert Mcleod, Andy Tretiakoff and Nick Spriggshall. Follow cracks left of the squeeze chimney.

Protection 

Small Tcu's and Camalots to #5. Two bolt anchor at top with Fixe rap rings.