Fun route! Just right of George's Buttress is a smooth steep face with 2 bolts and a large overhange above. This is New Year's Eve. Just right of this is a right angling hand crack through a bulge. Climb to the hand crack and over the bulge to a stance. Only a couple of hand jams are necessary, so you shouldn't need tape.
Above is a wide crack, which fortunately goes via fun stems. Above this start angling left following thing flared cracks and slabs. You are heading for the 2-bolt anchor on George's Buttress. There is a tricky move up a thin crack in a slab--the crux I thought. At a small ceiling step left then back right to clear it. One more tricky move leads straight left to the anchors and a good stance.
This felt much easy than its sister 5.9 to the right, Stoner's Boner, but I was self-belaying that one and so may have struggled more than necessary.
Protection
Double cams from green Alien to gold Camalot (about 3/8" to 2.5"). Above that, singles to at least a #4 Friend. I used a #4 Camalot, but a 3.5 Camalot/#4 Friend would work. Single set of nuts. Long slings. 2-bolt anchor that is shared with the right/standard variation of George's Tree.
When I say "George's Tree", of course I mean "George's Buttress". There is a George's Tree at Lumpy Ridge in Colorado where I often climb, and hence my confusion.
This route does not share anchors with George's Buttress! While you could traverse over to GB(left) you go up left then back right and continue up right angling sometimes flared crack to a two bolt anchor next to a block. Great route!
No that great for gear on the last "crack" part. More like a shallow seam. Just go for it! OR head left and finnish up on the 5.7.
I like this area a lot
By Joe Hamman From: Seattle, WA Oct 16, 2006 rating: 5.9
As far as protection, a standard rack should do is pleanty. I took a #4 Camalot and used it toward the top. Again, there are chains at the top of this route not belonging to George's.
I used a #4 to protect the second roof down low ( right up from the pic I posted)...Don't remember anything wide enough to take a 4 up top...
The pro's a little thin on the bottom part of the upper face (past the two roofs)..There's a couple of spots where the crack doesn't flare as much but they're very hard to see from the stances..
the top crack flares out but takes a textbook pink tri-cam...i also found a good placement a little lower down for a small tcu. really fun route.
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Jun 30, 2008 rating: 5.9+
BETA
people say the crux is one of those "the leader must not fall" situations but if you're good with passive pro it's just as well protected as the rest of the climb. there's a bomber large nut placement (BD #11 i think) 6-7 feet below the crux and a bomber micro nut placement (BD #3) right at the crux...trust me about the large nut placement; it took my second 10 minutes to get it out after i whipped on it...
Since I caught the fall and had to clean that %^(%*^&(&& I'll attest it's bomber. It's kind of a balancey move to get far enough off the ledge on the right to get a clean look at the crack. Much preferable to run it out over a crappy black Alien like I did.
So if you suck at passive gear like me then "you're stupid and you'll die."
I think Michael Reardon used to use that line but it's actually from the Pris/Daryl Hannah character in the movie "Blade Runner". One of the all-time best movies ever (after "Clockwork Orange" of course).
Chimney Rock
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