A topo photo of Stoner's Boner. Chimney Rock, Mt. ...
Description
The FFA's of Stoner's Boner and Mistaken Identity to the left, were both done thinking each climb was the other climb, and hence (I'm assuming) the names.
Stoner's Boner starts very roughly 50 feet right of George's Buttress at the left side of Chimney Rock. It climbs a parallel crack system in a recess just left of a big block against the base of the cliff. The block is the start of Centerpiece. A short ways up the left crack is a tiny pine tree.
Having never done the route before, it was a little confusing at times as to which crack to climb. This is how I did it:
Up the slab and step right to the right crack. Stem the two cracks. When it steepens, step over to the left crack below a bulge. The right crack might be easier, but the left crack looks like the better line. Getting past this bulge and established in the wider crack above is the first crux. I laybacked left and reach some horizontals.
Above this easier climbing leads a bit right to a good stance. There is a roof above. The left crack continues past the left side of the roof. This next section is the second crux. Step left onto the face with good handholds and pull up to an awkward stance below the roof. The crack above is flared and looks hard. Instead, undercling right around the roof (not hard, but exciting) to a good stance above the roof. Step back left into the crack. At the very top, the crack is flared. I pulled up and left to a ledge. The two-bolt anchor is right of the top of the crack.
Protection
Double cams from green Alien or smaller to #4 Friend/3.5 Camalot. Single set of nuts from brass to medium. Lots of draws and 5 or more full length runners. 2-bolt anchor. To rap, two ropes or 70m rope, or downclimb the last 10-20 feet if you have a 60m rope.
--climb up the slab to the left most crack get on a big stance above a little tree and place bomber pro... then continue up left crack..i was told left is much better than going up the right crack but I have never done the right. and left was great so go left!--I have always turned the roof on the right. I have never seen anyone turn it on the left or go straight over. A nice cam about .4 protects under the roof and then big hands help you turn it on the right. The left, I believe, would be quite a bit harder and looks to be less fun than the right. ...work back left to flared crack
Did it twice, two years apart. The first time I did it, I pulled around left of the roof. Then, last year, I pulled around right. Unless I've gotten much better over the last couple of years, I thought the lefthand variation was both more awkward and scarier. The right was great with better pro above the roof. YMMV but either way the climbing below the roof is exciting. -Bret
My 60m rope did NOT touch the ground. There was a bit of downclimbing, but it's on easy territory.
By Christian From: Tucson, Az Mar 12, 2007 rating: 5.9+
You can also just rap (slightly right as you face the rock) to the big block where Centerpiece starts, downclimbing that thing is easier than downclimbing off the end of the rope hanging straight down..
Make sure you use long slings under the upper roof, otherwise the drag will be really bad. Fun route with some unexpected challenges. Easy walk off.
By Christian From: Tucson, Az Dec 15, 2007 rating: 5.9+
I change my mind, this is a classic route..A great Mt Lemmon scarefest for the fledgling 5.9/5.9+ trad leader..Mistaken Identity has some scarier pro in one certain area, but Stoner's Boner gives you so many more chances to hang out and think "what the hell am I doing here, what was I thinking getting on this thing?" before committing to the next sketchy section...
The first time I led it I also went left to the easier ledge left of the top crack, but I didn't consider it sent until I went back and went straight up the top crack.
Chimney Rock
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