Wild route! Sustained. Walking right from George's Buttress you pass Mistaken Identity, Stoner's Boner, and then a large rectangular block against the base. Centerpiece climbs the obvious vertical crack system that starts from the right side of this block. A little further is a prominent left facing left leaning corner that starts a ways off the ground. The standard start goes up right then underclingd left and then traverses further left to reach the base of the corner. This is a bit runout, but not too hard. This also leads to rope drag. You might want to back clean the first few pieces after getting good gear in the corner. The direct start is up a thin crack in a slab. Gear looks good but fiddly. I did the standard start.
The corner is awkward and strenuous, but with good gear. Laybacks, jams and stems get you to the top. This was the physical crux for me. Stem right, and you're finally in balance. Step around to the right and climb a fun slab with mostly good footholds and great gear in a right angling crack. There is a runout bit near the top of this slab, not because there is no gear, but because it's hard to stop. Step left at the top of this section to a ledge system. The two chopped bolts will be at head level. You could place gear here and traveser way left on the ledge system (I almost did), but instead continue up the thin crack with funky gear (good at the bottom, shallow TCU, brass nut higher up). At the top I couldn't figure out what to do. It was windy, cold, and I was getting a bit gripped. Downclimbed 3 times, and finally decided to step left to some decent knobs and make a long reach to a good hold. It wasn't that hard (5.8?), but it was the head crux for me.
The belay on the large ledge is funky. You can get a couple of small cams directly above. I hiked left about 20-30 feet and placed a couple of large cams, then hiked back and belayed above the final moves. To get off, traverse left around an exposed corner to easy ground, then scramble down and climber's left to the base of George's Buttress.
Protection
Double cams from micro to gold Camalot. Single set nuts from brass to large. Long slings. WARNING: The 2-bolt anchor indicated on the top in Squeezing the Lemmon II is chopped as of this date. That guide also indicates mixed trad/bolts ("[B,G]"), but there are no protection bolts.
If you like plugging gear, this is a must do route. Rope drag was a concern so I did the traverse with no protection (don't rush it and don't look down). The corner is funky. The upper right angling crack is funky too and continues to steadily wear you down. The mental crux was the section above the chopped anchors. I had a serious pump in my left forearm by now and this section, although not the hardest, may be your undoing. Solid 10a.
The anchor requires finger size cams like a blue, green, and yellow alien. I only had one tiny cam left so I fiddled around with nuts. The more cams you have, the happier you will be.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Jan 1, 2008 rating: 5.10
The best of the routes I have done on this wall. The chopped bolts were a blessing, I guess, because I just kept going, well above the blue alien in the thin crack and directly up a very thin crack and face with horizontals, continuing up to a very large sloping ledge with trees. The upper section above the missing anchor was the best part! From the ledge, scramble up and left to a 2-bolt anchor with my cordalette and a biner on it and rap twice from there, the first being back to the top of Mistaken Identity/New Year's Eve, then to the ground. No doubt, someone will take the biner and cord, but it can always be replaced if you get stuck up there... or figure out some other escape.
By Eric Ruljancich From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC Mar 14, 2009
This climb is exciting one to jump on when tired, and at the end of several hard days of climbing. That is to say I had to work and swear a lot harder than anticipated. The climbing is sustained and committing.
When I got to the chopped bolts, I thought hmmm, either these are the anchors described in the book or I have farther to go. Not knowing the answer I continued up. A good 8 feet above my last piece I started to doubt my decision. While balancing on thin holds with no pro available I came to the conclusion that the bolts had been chopped and that I had no idea of what was above me. After a few exciting minutes I decided to down climb. Down climbing was to become the emotional crux of the route. I do not suggest doing this.
Once back at my gear, I built an anchor and walked out left on the ledge. I was curious to know what was on the big ledge above that I hadn't made it to so I scrambled up there. On the ledge I found two threaded bolt inserts and two drilled holes. Unfortunately not a single bolt or hanger was to be found. The gear looked poor, and I had little left to build an anchor. I climbed down and over to the anchors of Stoners Boner and belayed from there.
Lesson learned: Read Mountain Project first
And what's up with all the chopped and missing bolts? Weren't the first set of bolts the conclusion of the original line? And if not, then why are the ones above, where the gear is only so so missing?
This route is sooooo freakin fantastic!! Climb above the original anchor for a bit of the ole head-rush (highly recommended!). The gear directly above this path, in the overhang on the big ledge, is in slightly sketchy rock but definitely all there: I got a red cam, two large nuts, and a micro cam. Slightly left of here is a long vertical groove with less placement options.
Direct finish requires a #6 HB brass if I remember correctly. I see that the chopped bolts would pose an elimination of the pucker factor on the direct (and cut short the route). Maybe a bolt above the ledge system out left could allow a solid piece for a vertical finish (10+ feet left of direct) and toward the good gear belay on the ledge above. I stepped left today and went way up to the ledge and rapped back to the ledge to belay my second because of rope drag- a little PITA... And why are there 4 anchors above georges!?
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