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Leaners Permit 

5.9 X

   

FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard & Scott McNamara
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 60 feet
Views: 119 page views

Submitted By: Hendrixson on Jun 8, 2009


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Classic rope & rock photo.


Description 

This route is only for those seeking a meaningless death on a poorly bolted, crumb cake of a climb. The first of the randomly placed bolts is 15 feet off the ground, above a ledge, and awkward. 20 more feet of climbing on eroding rock leads to the second bolt.

Note "Squeezing the Lemmon II" (2000, EFR) lists this climb as 5.10 with no safety caveats. The above is merely my flamebait of an opinion. I believe this route should be rebolted or removed.


Location 

Look for the only bolted line on the furthest North (down highway) Canine. The route climbs the less steep East face.


Protection 

4 Bolts & Chains



Comments on Leaners Permit Add Comment
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By Eric Rhicard
Jun 8, 2009

Hey Hendrixson, sorry we left those hangers on. The climb really did suck and we were tired after leading it ground up, and so we just walked away. I might be a little sensitive but I must point out since to me you imply that SQ 11 (2000 EFR) didn't warn you about the danger. You will notice there was not a single star on it. It also said in the description that the only reason to climb it is "if you want to see if the tower will stay up". Good to post it up as the heap it is. Mind your stars next time. Ha Ha

By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 8, 2009

No worries, Eric. I was the one who decided to get on the route and I was the one who kept climbing in spite of the risk. I just wanted to share my opinion and hear the thoughts of others.

By the way, I mentioned SQII not to criticize but because I view it is a more definitive source. In general I try to post the FAs rating when posting routes on MP.