The Boneyard is a great mid-mountain destination to escape the heat of summer. Several quality sport routes can be found here, from 5.9+ to 5.12-. The area shares an approach with the uber popular Ridgeline crag and can be a welcome haven from the crowded gym-like atmosphere that can occur there.
Getting There
Park on the right pullout at milepost ~18.5 next to a quarry of white rock. Don't get too discouraged when you see 4-6 cars in this area as most of the climbers are likely at Ridgeline. The trail for both areas begins up a steep slope at the upper end of the lot. As you work your way up the drainage wash take care not to slip on polished slabs. The hike reaches a saddle intersection and breaks off to the right and to the left. Take the right trail to the base of the climbs. The approach should take approximately 15 minutes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Boneyard:
in extreme wet and cold years (like winter 1998) several MI (mixed ice) routes form in the middle part of wall (one I did later is 5.7 dry, and leads to notch to right of small left side summit tower) and two WI4 (water ice) form further left on the wall. In 1998, the left route did not top out and right route did not touch down so a TR of the two routes allowed an 'ascent'. A lead would demand optimal conditions for a screw to be placed.
Both the middle MI routes were not completed due to fragile ice (too cold). Both required pins (which we lowered off of, then came back to clean on warmer spring days).
This route, which is in Squeezing the Lemmon II, is called When the Whip Comes Down. The bolt missing the hanger is the one you clip before you pull the roof at the top. I'll replace it when and if I go there again. Otherwise someone else might think about replacing it.
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