Mt. Lemmon's hardest route to date. Has seen very few ascents despite a lot of attempts by some very talented climbers. A lot of very difficult and technical climbing packed into roughly 65-70ft. Bring your power and your skin to play on this one. Best to work on when its nice and crisp or say goodbye to your fingertips.
Location
On Beaver wall proper located between "Climb with a View/Trapezoid" and "Golden Beaver"
Howdy. Was looking for a little history and opinions for this route. I've kicked around the idea of working on it, and was just wondering if anyone has been on it recently? Just looking for a little information before I cheese grate my finger tips into little nubs.
It has lots of history, a veritable saga of failure. Mike Head drilled it and attempted the FA but I believe could do no better than a 2-hang (which is still damn good). The FA by Dan Michael (probably the most honed climber I've ever seen) has to be a milestone in AZ climbing -- almost 20 years ago now. No local has succeeded including Scully and Miles Kunkel although I saw Miles one-hang it. Only 3 redpoints total and only 1 by an Arizonan -- Greg Varela of Phoenix. I watched one of his attempts and was blown away by his ability to get recovery shakes in places I could barely hold on. Hans Florine used to stop by regularly to get shut down by it.
Scully once said it was the best route on Mt. Lemmon. I know Miles had a very high opinion of it too. It has at least one chipped hold if that bothers you. It is not that sharp IIRC, most holds are half to full pad.
Hey Jbak, I thought it was Ray Ringle and Dan Michael that created this route? Dan did the FA. I know that he and Ray created F... Me Pumps which has never seen an FA. I think Hans had fifty some attempts on this route.
Eric I'm pretty sure Mike did the drilling and went for the FA. Ray was involved, perhaps equally. I think Mike turned it over after he gave it his best shot. I talked to Mike about it not long ago so this is a fairly recent memory. But my brain can be pretty foggy.
Well thanks guys. Looks like it might be a nice late afternoon project, and a good one to train on. And being right next to the Golden Beaver, double trouble. . .
As for chipping holds, it blows my mind. But, you can't change the past. Hopefully future generations will co-exist with the rock in a little friendlier manner. Of course I am saying this before I get on the route. The chipped holds might come in handy during red-point attempts.
Beaver Wall
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