Hebe 

Howdy. Was looking for a little history and opinions for this route. I've kicked around the idea of working on it, and was just wondering if anyone has been on it recently? Just looking for a little information before I cheese grate my finger tips into little nubs.

Thanks if advance.

It has lots of history, a veritable saga of failure. Mike Head drilled it and attempted the FA but I believe could do no better than a 2-hang (which is still damn good). The FA by Dan Michael (probably the most honed climber I've ever seen) has to be a milestone in AZ climbing -- almost 20 years ago now. No local has succeeded including Scully and Miles Kunkel although I saw Miles one-hang it. Only 3 redpoints total and only 1 by an Arizonan -- Greg Varela of Phoenix. I watched one of his attempts and was blown away by his ability to get recovery shakes in places I could barely hold on. Hans Florine used to stop by regularly to get shut down by it.

Scully once said it was the best route on Mt. Lemmon. I know Miles had a very high opinion of it too. It has at least one chipped hold if that bothers you. It is not that sharp IIRC, most holds are half to full pad.

Hey Jbak, I thought it was Ray Ringle and Dan Michael that created this route? Dan did the FA. I know that he and Ray created F... Me Pumps which has never seen an FA. I think Hans had fifty some attempts on this route.

Eric I'm pretty sure Mike did the drilling and went for the FA. Ray was involved, perhaps equally. I think Mike turned it over after he gave it his best shot. I talked to Mike about it not long ago so this is a fairly recent memory. But my brain can be pretty foggy.

Well thanks guys. Looks like it might be a nice late afternoon project, and a good one to train on. And being right next to the Golden Beaver, double trouble. . .

As for chipping holds, it blows my mind. But, you can't change the past. Hopefully future generations will co-exist with the rock in a little friendlier manner. Of course I am saying this before I get on the route. The chipped holds might come in handy during red-point attempts.

Thanks Again

According to "Wizards of Rock" by Pat Ament, Dan Michael made the FA in 1990. This would make Hebe one of the first 5.14s in the country (assuming the grade is solid).

Also according to the same source, Merril Bitter sent Hebe in May 1998, at age 45.

This is my favorite route in the world that I never red-pointed. (Yet)

You can put the "-" behind the "5.14", but I think it IS a 5.14.

I remember when Bitter got his ascent, I tracked him down and called him and congratulated him. Fricken awesome send at any age. Whoa this might be serendipity, I'm turning 45 this year, maybe I am experienced enough now to send it!

I found the best temperature on this route was about 61 degrees. Not to hot to melt your fingers and not too cold to cramp you up between goes.

Best of luck with this one. Speed be with you.

Hi Everyone,

I just started working on this route today (4/12/09) and left some draws on bolts 1-5, I believe. I was using these draws as directionals (was working on top-rope) and will be leaving them for this purpose, for the time being. Please do not use them for leading up the climb as weather and sun may make them unable to hold a fall any longer. If I start leading this climb, I will replace the draws with other ones and take them down on a daily basis.

Thanks a lot.

That you danny ?...we were talkin about Hebe in the gym ?

Don't worry too much about weather exposure on draws. It takes many months for it to become a problem. When the draws get stiff and crusty, then you can worry.

Hi John, yup this is Danny. Thanks for the info on the draws. My newness to the sport is showing quite well and it won't be the last time.

Hi everyone, was talking over the idea, with a climbing partner, of putting some fixed draws (specifically quick draws with a quick link to the bolt) on this climb for the winter. There are a couple of us working the climb, on weekly basis, and this would make things easier. Just wanted to see if anyone was opposed with the idea before I do this.

DO IT!

DON'T DO IT!

MAYBE DO IT!

After setting up a TR on this climb TONS of times in the past few months, I have decided that I can be a little less lazy and not leave fixed draws on the climb. Thanks for the input everyone!