This is the first bolt line left of Last Supper (5.11), the prominent crack line on the right side of the east face, and despite it's rating it's one of the easier routes on the wall.
A superb route that features continuous thin edges up a slightly overhanging wall with no stopper moves. Fun moves on excellent rock make this a great introduction to the harder lines on the Beaver Wall.
B or C can we quit splitting hairs. I could climb it ten times and half the time I would call it b and half c. It is solid 12 and it is a good introduction to the thin crimps of the Beaver Wall.
I've heard it's either .12b+ or .12c-. I think it depends on the position of the moon, the ambient air temperature, dew point and humidity. Remember it's about the journey not the numbers.
You have to really like crimps to enjoy this route. Difficulty based on holds rather than movement, but I guess thats Mount Lemmon.
By jbaker From: Tucson, AZ Jul 5, 2006 rating: 5.12c
Well it's only got ONE really nasty crimp. If it were a brand new route I would probably only give it a weak 2 stars, but history alone earns the 3rd. It was a widely known test-piece in the late 80s. It's sustained and the red-point crux is near the end.
I wouldn't compare this to Green Ripper, which is BY FAR a better climb. I'm a crimp-o-maniac and this had some nasty suckers on it. One bad crimp........no way!
By jbaker From: Tucson, AZ Jul 6, 2006 rating: 5.12c
Way.
Compared to other Beaver Wall routes RT is fairly benign. Try Lessons if you like crimps.
I too am remembering only one poor crimp. The others must be standard Mt. Lemmon fare at the grade. History does give this route an extra star in my book too. The mad Brit doing the direct finish sans pro and Mark Hathaway's memories of belaying Lynn Hill on her onsight to name a couple. Those of you who have heard Mark's story know what I'm talking about.
Got on this for the first time today. I counted _two_ terrible crimps, one after the other, the first of which put a nice hole in my right index finger (if you climb it soon you'll see my blood and Matt's blood on most of the holds after the crux).
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