This route climbs the tall, southern (left) end of the Beaver Wall. Climb a finger crack that widens to hands through a small roof. Belay at bolts on ledge. The second pitch starts off with an off-width crack that is protected with a large cam. Good wide climbing takes you to a ledge. There are a couple variations for topping out, the easiest of which is reached by continuing farther right on lower angled rock. Straight up thin cracks is better. Descend from anchors on top of Highlander (to the left on top of tower) or it possible to walk off.
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT Jan 2, 2005 rating: 5.9
I concur with Gary. This route is easily a full grade harder than Jambrosia, which is a 5.8 of similar style (stemming and jamming) and identical rock type.
We didn't do the offwidth second pitch, instead opting out on Alley Oop, 5.7, to the right. This was completely unexciting. I think a better option if you want to avoid the offwidth is to just do pitch one, rap, and then climb Vistacruiser, 5.7.
After you do the first two pitches, which can and should be led as one, there is a straight up variation that starts off the left side of the big ledge. It's 5.10 and a fun finish if you done the standard finish before. Look for a few bolts up and out left when your standing on the big ledge.
By Christian From: Tucson, Az Jun 20, 2006 rating: 5.9
What's the belay situation at the top of this climb? Gear, sling blocks or trees, cold shuts?
Thanks
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 22, 2006 rating: 5.9
If I remember correctly, it is bolts. I think there are in fact two sets of bolts on this one. But you can double check as you approach, because you walk right past the top of the route. The top is at the same level as the parking area and the approach trail.
Actually you have to walk a couple of hundred feet past the descent for this route to find the belay bolts at the top of this cliff
By Christian From: Tucson, Az Aug 8, 2007 rating: 5.9
This is a Mike McEwen/Dave Baker route..Some incredibly strong and bold climbers ( + Steve Grossman et al) in an era when the very hardest routes were rated 5.10/5.11...
I thought it was more of a 5.9 too but wasn't surprised given the first ascentionists and the date it was put up.
Felt harder than Old Man to me, especially the off-width.
By joshf From: Tucson, AZ Oct 25, 2007 rating: 5.9
the first pitch is great for a first aid climb. you have to do the last move free but theres a giant horn. its a good thing the pro is awesome the whole way up because a 5.8 trad leader might get thrashed on this.