Arizona Flyways 

WSnyder,do you have a bolt count for this route? Are the bolts sufficient for the climb, or are there any natural placements available along this line to supplement the fixed pro? Were you able to determine if the climb had a single crux section, or was the entire route a sustained 5.11? I've heard this line is easier for those who have a good deal of hand strength and a lot of upper body endurance -- did you likewise find it to be largely a series of pullups, or were you able to use your feet to good purpose as well?

How does this climb compare with the similarly rated Bubblenutz?

RCA says 9 bolts, looks hard and thin... I looked at it and decided it was probably not an 11b/c that a 10+/11a leader can hope to get up, even hangdogging it..

maybe with the help of a better climber to lay the draws and demonstrate the moves..

I do not know how many bolts there are but it has enough. I cannot say you won't get hurt if you fall, you shouldn't but you could. The route is fairly long and somewhat pumpy with a crux that you will readily recognize when you get to it. Good footwork is always important regardless of the grade or steepness of the route although EMk says "Good footwork gets in the way of strength training." so it is your choice to efficiently use your feet or not. Good footwork on this route is possible and could be helpful. This route in my opinion is far better than Bubblenutz.

There are probably not more that 10 bolts. There are only a few really hard moves, but a lot of smaller holds add up and this route gets pumpy.

This is a great route, a very fair and sutained 11. I feel that "Just Do It" was a little harder if not at last the same grade as "Arizona Flyways". There are many interesting moves. Watch out for the glue! Lots of good holds that sound hollow, but feel strong. This is definitely a good project route for someone trying to break into 11. I need to work on a redpoint!

Is it 11b climbing to the first bolt? That thing is pretty damn high.

Getting to the first bolt is 5.9. If the dead manzanita you start on ever breaks it will get harder. If you are really worried stick clip the first bolt if that is what is holding you back. A high starting bolt (that can be stick clipped) is not a good reason to avoid getting on things.

That's what I thought when I first saw that bolt: "looks like a stick-clip only situation". But I guess 5.9 I might be willing to try without a stick-clip, so good to know.

The dead manzanita tree was still able support my weight today and there are huge holds between the tree and the bolt(5.8?). A stick clip does not seem necessary at all. Great climb!

i notice some glue up there, has there been chipping too?

One good argument for the stick clip is to prevent impalement on the punji stick that so often occurs when manzanita breaks.

If you want to stick clip, do it. If you want to put in extra gear, do it. If you want to run it, bypass bolts, 3rd class, etc... do it.

Safety is a state of mind and one should never let peer pressure decide how you will lead a climb. The safer you climb, the longer you'll climb.

No chipping on this route. This route was lead ground hanging on hooks to drill. A lot of the holds were pancake stacks that eventually peeled off. Very exciting to hook on. Went back later and tried to reinforce them. A number are gone but the climb still goes at about the same grade.

Thanks for the info, Eric, sounds like a spicey put-up! I really enjoy this climb, I imagine it will get a bit harder to do straight on once that roasted manzanita at the bottom finally cracks off...

great climb!