The road up Mount Lemmon, at The Hairpin. The cli...
Description
Mount Lemmon provides an equal amount of diverse rock climbing, from classic multi-pitch traditional routes to bolted sport climbs.
The Santa Catalina Mountains rising to an elevation of 9,157 feet above the desert floor of nearby Tucson, offer some of the best climbing in Arizona. More than 1,200 climbing routes can be found on the Mountain, making Mount Lemmon one of the most popular climbing areas in the state.
Almost all of Mount Lemmon's climbs are on south facing crags, offering the best winter, spring and fall climbing weather in the country. The Mount Lemmon Highway climbs more than 5,300 feet and passes through five of North America's seven distinct life zones, providing comfortable weather year round.
ADMIN NOTE:
Eric Fazio Rhicard has written up a mile post update to Sqeezing the Lemmon II. This should account for changes due to road construction in recent years. It's long, but I've posted it here, figuring this was the most obvious place for people to find it. Thanks, Eric, for all the time spent on this! --Forest
Squeezing The Lemmon II Mile Marker Update
In 2000 when the guidebook was published the highway was under construction. The work has ended and most of milemarkers have been moved. I drove the highway and recorded the actual mileages for the parking and pullouts to all but a few crags. Below I have listed the page and the new mileages for overviews, topos and text. It may be in the text or on an overview (OV) or overhead (OH). Sometimes if there is no mileage for a crag on the overview or overhead I have included it so you can add it. To update your guidebook here is the info.
P.1 Mt Lemmon Overview; Change Old Prison Camp to Gordon Hirabayashi and change MP 7 to 7.3 P.10 Mt Lemmon Highway Overview; Soldier Trail 1.4 to 1.3, Weathertop has no MP but you can add 4.5, Fee Pay Station 5 to 5.1, Gatehouse has no Mp but you can ad 6.1, Jailhouse and Garc Onilom has no mileage but you can add 7.3, Kesslers Corner to 8.6 P.12 Picture caption from .5 to .6 P.14 Hairpin OV .5 to .6 P. 19 Hidden Jewels OH 1.4 to 1.3 P. 20 Left of The Gatehouse 6.2 to 6.1 P. 21 It Cliff OH 4.7 to 4.5 P. 34 Prison Camp OV is now called Gordon Hirabayashi Overview. P. 35 Prison Camp Area is now Gordon Hirabayashi Area P. 39 Kessler’s Corner 9 to 8.6 P. 40 Lower Bear Canyon OV Green Slabs 10 to 9.9 P. 41 In Text below words Agave Spires 14.3 to 13.8 Bottom paragraph i in the Text above the words Trick or Treat 15.8 to 15.3 P. 44 Chessman OH 9.8 to 9.4 and 10.2 to 9.8 P. 45 In the text Park in the pullout at 10.2 change to 9.4 P. 50 Green Slabs and Panorama OV 10.2 to 9.9 P. 52 10.2 to 9.9 on the OH and in the text. P. 56 MP 10 should be moved up road just past the Green Slabs P. 68 Upper Bear Canyon Overview. Under Cornerstone write in 10.3, Chimney Rock 11 to 10.9, Wailing Wall 12.4, Dr. Death 13 to 12.6 is the trail and the first pullout up the road is 12.8 Rollinstone and Lost Hawk pinnacle 13.6 to 13.3 P. 73 In the text 11 to 10.9 P. 79 In the text 15.6 to 15.3 P. 85 Wailing Wall text 12.8 to 12.4 P. 86 Dr. Death ... OV Parking 13 to 12.8 The trail leaves road at 12.6 add it if you like. P. 88 Text 13 to 12.8 P. 94 Rollinstone OV 13.4 to 13.3 P. 98 Windy Pt. East OV Andy’s Hat 14.1 to 13.6, New Wave Wall 14.2 to 13.7, Windy Point 14.3 to 13.8 P. 99 Text said 14 to 14.3 change it to 13.6 to 13.8 P. 100 Punch and Judy OV 14.1 to 13.6 P. 107 Andy’s Hat OH 14.1 to 13.6 P. 112 Rupley Towers OV 14.2 to 13.7 P. 114 Pullout Wall OV 14.2 to 13.7 P. 126 Indigo Tower... and Wind Wall Topo. Change Topo to Overhead and the MP 14.3 to 13.7 P. 134 Hunchback Pinnacle Area OV 14.2 to 13.7 P. 152 Windy Point West OV 14.3 to 13.8 P. 184 Windy Ridge OV Geology Vista 14.7 to 14.3, The Stones 14.8 to 14.4, Goosehead 15.3 to 14.7, Lizard Rock change MP 15.4 to MP 15.9 to just 15.6 P. 185 Text Geology Vista at 14.7 to 14.3 The Matterhorn mileage is close enough but you could change it to 15.7. P. 190 Goosehead OV 15.2 to 14.7 A new pullout above Cowpunks is 14.7 too. P. 191 Phallus and Goosehead OH 15.2 to 14.7 P. 195 Cowpunks Wall OH 15.3 to 14.7 P. 196 Eagle Rock OH 15.4 to 15 P. 198 Lizard Rock OV Middle Earth 15.4 to 15, Loose Goose 15.8 to 15.3, Lizard Rock 15.9 to 15.6, Outback 16.3 to 16.1 P. 200 Parking area is now just down the road at mp 15.2 so change it from 15.8 to 15.2 and move it down the road. P. 201 Text first paragraph 15.8 to 15.2 P. 202 In the text change 15.4 to 15. At bottom of the paragraph there is no trail from Col. Birdseye. P. 207 In the text 15.9 to 15.6 P. 209 Text 16.3 to 16.1 P. 210 Mid-Mtn. OV Palisades Ranger Station 20 to 19.4, Ridgeline and Boneyard 18.5 to 18.3, San Pedro Vista 17.8 to 17.3 Rose Canyon 17.3 to 17, Next mile marker down the road on the left is 16.2 to 16.1. P. 211 Text Palisades ranger station 20 to 19.4 P. 212 Rose Cyn. Lake OV MP 17.3 to 17, MP 16.2 to 16.1 by Willow Canyon Circle cabins. P. 213 Geology Vista picture caption 14.7 to 14.3 P. 225 In the text Willow Canyon Circle around MP 16.2 to 16.1 P. 228 San Pedro OV San Pedro Vista Pullout 17.8 to 17.3 and MP 17.3 to 17 P. 244 Druid OV MP 20 to 19.4
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Lemmon:
One of the best sport climbs on one of the best cliffs on Mt. Lemmon. Tsunami is the last route on the right side of the cliff before the arete. Climb elegant moves to a good rest halfway up the route. The crux involves cranking on small crimps. Gets morning shade....[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
Mt. Lemmon has a wide variety of temperatures at any given time since the base is at approximately 2800 ft and the summit is at 9000 ft.
That having been said, April is a great time to climb here. The lower mountain is still comfy and it's likely that elevations up through windy pt (about 6000 ft) and even beyond will be quite climable.
I'd have a hard time calling the Mt. Lemmon road construction "about done." However, it's not too much of an impediment at the moment. Currently, there's very limited parking at Windy Pt because that's the part of the road they're working on. There's a single lane with a light there on a 5/2 cycle right now.
Personally, I expect that thhe Mt Lemmon road contruction will outlast all of us.
Just wanted to give a warning about the new hazards of that fancy Windy Point road art! While a climbing partner and I were crossing the road we observed a Ford Ranger spinning out of control. It seemed really odd because it didn't appear it was caused by driver error. When we crossed the road we then relized how slick the wet road actually was ! My partner and I are going to contact the DOT. We felt the road is going to be causing some real problem's with Bicycles, Motorcycles etc. Also my new E- mail address is andypeters520@msn.com.
Yeah, I have to admit to having the same concerns. I'd assumed that they must have treated the surface so it wouldn't be as slick as it looks, but apparently not. Scary!
Hairpin climb, ( Cake Blocks) on the Solo Chain Wall on the right side of the canyon is only 1 pitch! The 2nd no longer exists! Also the original grade said 5.10 which was wrong, its more like 5.8- and a 60m rope is required !
What is the weather at Mt.Lemmon like in late September? How hot is it? I'm from PA and am considering a trip then but am concerned about the temps. since Tucson is still in the 90's in Sept.
The best guidebook by far is Steiger. This book was a labor of love and it shows. One of those books that I'll always treasure.
And I just found one on Amazon for $8.00 (mint condition!). Sorry - but I just bought it since the pages fell out of my old one.
Nothing really wrong with Squeezing the Lemon - all the newer sport routes are there.
I don't recommend Green's Rock Climbing Arizona book. It one of the Falcon "drive by" guidebooks that makes me sick. Buy a guidebook from a local, not some guy cherry-picking the work of others.
The choice of guidebooks depends mostly on whether you plan on trad or sport. Squeezing The Lemmon is good for both but is getting to be out of date. Tyler's Sport Select is a bit less out of date but covers only sport and not all crags. Eric seems to be coming out with a Squeezing update sometime soon.
Steiger's guide is WAY out of date, but a nice historical document. The BEST guide is the old under-the-counter Summit Hut guide of which I have one of about 10 copies.
Charlene, September is a great time to climb on Mt. Lemmon. You just pick your elevation to suit the temperature. When it's 100 in Tucson it,s in the 70's on top of Mt. Lemmon. Plus you can always find climbs in the shade. While Steiger's guide is great from a historical perspective, the new Squeezing the Lemmon II is the the most current and comprehensive guide available.
The "Sport Guide" that is mentioned by the venerable jbak is no longer in print. Squeezing the Lemmon II will tell you where the sport routes are. Simply look at the description Jbak if you see [B,C] that means it is a sport route. As you say, Squeezing the Lemmon II is a little out of date,but only if you climb here all the time. There are more than enough great routes for the visitor or newly arrived. A few areas have a lot of new stuff. Troll Wall, Boot Hill, and The Chessmen. Sun Spot Crags in Molino (great for winter) and The Steep (great for summer) are not in SQ II but will be in the supplement. With luck I will get a supplement out before too long. There are 1500+ routes in SQ II. that should keep most folks busy for a while. If you drag out the hexes Jbak you might even find a route or two you have not done. In fact if you can show me that you have lead half of the 1500+ routes in SQ II I will give you a supplement for free.
The basic answer to your question is "yes". Scott has put up a number of new routes both bolted and trad. Others here know more about the area than I (thank you Scott and Erik M for pointing stuff out). I only did one route and then it rained which I used as an excuse to bail. On the way out we did the right-hand route on the little pinnacle across the stream which I thought was quite good -- steep and devious.
Christian, Scott did do several new routes at the Troll wall. Sport from 5.8 to 5.11, mixed to 5.11, and cleaned up a bunch of the old routes so now they're solid and fun. It's one of the better walls on Mt. Lemmon now. Sunny until about 2:00pm these days. I've only been there a hand full of times so my beta from memory would probably do more harm than good. Go out and jump on some of them, sans beta, they're all good. Bring a rack, the gear stuff is sweet.
The Troll wall also has several well protected moderate trad route's. 5.7 5.8 and 5.9.These climb's are on the far left end and uphill.A 60M Rope is required as these climb's are about 100Ft.in height.Thank's to Scott A. for putting up these climb's,alway's nice to have more moderate's for us lower grade leader's!!!
Sun Spot Crags, Mount Lemmon's newest area is located just north of Molino Campground and now has over 30 new routes from 5.7 to 5.12 with more to come. The climbs are both sport and trad and range in length from 30 to 100 feet. The approach is short 10 to 20 minutes depending on which crags you visit. You can climb here in the coldest of Tucson weather if the sun is out. If it isn't sunny bring a warm jacket and you can still climb.
Check out the Arizona forum section for information on the first annual Catalina Climb n' Climb. During the annual event, you will bicycle past many Mt. Lemmon crags on your way to Rap Rock. Rumor has it that even Rhicard is, or will be, secretly training for this event.
EFR or John Baker. I have a bunch of Fixe hangers (50+) that I am willing to donate to the cause. Since I am retired whoever shoots me an email first gets them free of charge. Hope all is well in Tucson. email me off the list. Cheers Todd todd.gangelhoff@uchsc.edu
Yes my brother. If I get 'em, I'll split them with Eric. Christ I just noticed I spelled your name wrong on my website. You were right about the Dry BTW.
This one goes out to anyone in town who has a home wall or is building one. A new climbing hold manufacturer, Contact Climbing Holds LLC, is located right here in town. Check out the goods at contactclimbing.com. Monthly subscriptions available as well as discounts on bulk orders.
John, thanks for the info. and the offer to show me the area. I'll drop you an email in the near future. I still use your guide to Milagrosa; you're performing a real service here for the climbing community.
Was there any evidence that (makes you think) that climbers are the blame for this? Most climbers are sensible people! Most of the broken bottles and garbage at "Windy Point" and other areas are from (Jim Bob and his cousin) from the flat lands..
Rock and Ropes of Tucson will be hosting both a Wilderness First Aid and Wilderness First Responder course at the following dates:
WFR: Oct. 12-20th
WFA: Oct. 21-22nd
To register, visit www.remotemedical.com or call 1.800.597.4911
Prices, course requirements/descriptions, and times can be found at the site above.
By Joseph Stover From: Chistchurch, New Zealand Aug 28, 2006
Just to reiterate in case anyone has any doubts: Watch out for snakes!(and other things that can be dangerous also)
About two weeks ago I was out at Hairpin looking at the new landscape. It was sundown, when activity is higher I think. I came pretty close to stepping on a rattlesnake on the left side(facing the road) on my way out towards the tunnels under the road(I never noticed those before). It was about 3 feet long and about a 1.5 inch diameter, I think it was a female because it was really fat and tapered off quickly near the rattle, which someone told me is a charictaristic of females. It was curled up and immediately rattled, uncurled, and slithered off to the left once I hopped down a big boulder about 8 feet away from it and quickly became aware of it due to the rattle. Had it been curled within 2 feet of the base of the boulder, I would have been in high danger of being bitten. So watch out!
Having hiked, hunted, and climbed here for 25 years I have seen dozens of rattlesnakes. I have seen them every month of the year, from elevations of 2000 feet to the top of Mt. Lemmon (Murray Wall). I have seen my dog walk right over them. I have seen Bob Kerry step next to them. I have seen Bob jump straight up in the air when one rattled and land right where he started thus giving the snake ample opportunity to strike. With hundreds of friends and acquaintances covering thousands of miles not one has ever been bitten. Not that it can't happen. The chances are miniscule. If you do get bit try not to panic and get to a hospital as soon as possible and you will live. Statistics show that the people that do get killed are between the ages of 18 and 24, male with tattoos, and they have been drinking. Good luck!
Definitely don't get that "Squeezing the Lemmon II" book...just kidding..stop by one of the Summit Huts on Speedway or Wetmore and pick up a copy..
Mt Lemmon is directly north of Tucson and accessed from the northeast side of the city..depending on what part of town you live would say anywhere from 10-30 minutes to get to the bottom of the highway..
Was just wondering if anyone had any clue why someone would have added a bolt to the start of Party Pooters on Swim Fin right next to a perfectly good gear placement that several hundred people who climbed the climb before didn't seem to need.
I don't know if it's that time of the year where they need to rack up the quota of tickets (for all I know, that could be an urban myth), but the sheriffs were particularly active up on the mountain this weekend setting up speed traps..Especially watch out for one coming down that hill before you get to the Prison Camp/Gordon Hirabashi entrance..If you're new to the mountain, make a note of where it is on the way up..
I've seen (DUI Checkpoints) set up in this area during the holidays, so it's best to have a (Designated Driver) after having a few of those 'Apres Climbing Beers' at the end of the day!
Just purchased a yearly pass for "Saguaro National Park East." The cost was $25.00. I didn't really mind paying $25.00 till I heard a rumor from other cyclist's that I ride with that the yearly pass is going to be double that next year!! $50.00! :( Can't help to wonder what they are going to charge for the "Lemmon Pass."
Previous to Jan 07 you could also use the National Parks Golden Eagle pass which is now no longer available.
The new "America the Beautiful - the National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass" which is the new interagency program pass which cost $80 will gain you access to all Federal Lands. One pass fits all.
But then again I did just receive something from the Access Fund saying they managed to open the Rockfellows (Cochise Stronghold)for year-round climbing.
Yet the last time I was down there in January there were still signs saying the closure would be in effect March 1st-June 30th..
The latest Access Fund newsletter did get the closure information wrong for Cochise. Due to Peregrine Falcon monitoring the USFS saw it prudent to reduce the length of the closure, but it was not lifted. I can send anyone interested a pdf file of the letter from the USFS listing the closure dates for the domes down in the Stronghold. This letter is also posted at Rocks and Ropes. I also mean to contact the Access Fund regarding the error in their latest newsletter so they can post a correction.
On top of Christian's and Luke's... - headed up the hill yesterday and saw a 'rescue' staging and initiating at Molino to Summit Crags. Appeared through the binocs to be a dumb ass in street clothes stuck -panicky - trying to look cool awaiting rescue. Kind of depressing as such foolishness pretty much blows the idea of a raptor closure...
I'm wondering about an area called Southpark that's in the guidebook but isn't listed on any online guides. Has anyone been there recently and can offer info or opinions about the climbs?
ecievy, South Park has several very good and long climbs. It's well worth the apporach and nice and cool this time of year. While North Park also has some nice stuff I would climb out South Park before I bother with North park. Give yourself some extra time for the approach the first time in. If the trail is over grown this place is hard to find.
On the topo map that shows the top of Mt. Lemmon, look for "Lemmon Spring" and then look a bit north to Peak 8686.(www.dot.co.pima.az.us/gis/maps/mapguide...arizona... works too)
Just NW of Peak 8686 are some packed isolines. That is South Park. Just W of Peak 8686 is a little peaklet. There is a steep, north-descending gully between these two. I think that is where you drop down to the climbs.
East of Peak 8686 is the hairpin turn in the summit road. If you park ABOVE the hairpin at about elev 8500 and then do a south-sweeping contour around to 8686 you will do about as well as you can. Total walking distance should be less than a mile but it will feel longer. It may take a bit of looking and it was possible to get lost even before the fire. It's a beautiful, very isolated area. A part of Mt Lemmon that few people ever see. And there are some good routes there too.
Don't feel bad. Your not the only one to wonder about in search of this crag. My 1st time out we wondered for 2 hours or so but we were rewarded with finding the friggin thing. My advice. Hook up with someone who's been there or use the GPS. If I wasn't going to the Needles for 2 weeks I'd take you there. Here's the deal. Park like you would to get to the Reef. But the trail busts up the road cut across from the big pull out on the left side of the road where the rusting ski lift parts are. Not from the pull out on the right side of the road just past the guard rail. Follow this trail up the ridge and look for a bend to the right at a big dead tree. (About 300 hundred yards up the hill) You will soon be skirting the steep hill side, with the canyon that runs underneath the Reef, on your right. Follow this around until your at the saddle that's on the opposite side of this canyon. From this saddle there will be a trail that busts sharply right. That goes to North park. Keep heading along the ridge past the saddle on a trail that will take you to South park. You won't see the crag until you start heading steeply down hill, in a hundred yards or so it will appear on your left. The trail goes under all the climbs.
I took a trip out to Southpark and I listed Southpark as a new area with some current (as of 06/30/07) directions and maps. Basically the old trail sucks ass! Follow the new directions and maps posted under Southpark and you should get there with minimal effort.
I will be traveling and in the area, I'm hoping to find some Bouldering while I'm there. Anyone have any suggestions? Looking for traverses, steep jugs or thin vert, Maybe v1-v4. Won't have a pad, so need some user friendly areas. Or where can I buy a book about Bouldering near Tucson?
Thanks A Bundle
By Joseph Stover From: Chistchurch, New Zealand Nov 13, 2007
Here is the link to the old bouldering guide by Tyler McMillan:
For easy access, I would recommend Gates Pass, Matterhorn boulder, Silverbell boulders, and Jibba Jabba boulder. I have never bouldered much around here though, but have been to these places. Hope that helps.
Does anyone know anything about a new gym going up on the east side of town? I've heard rumors of it for a couple years now, and have even seen a website for it, but they just keep saying it keeps getting pushed back. Does anyone know if it's a reality or just someone's pipedream? Thanks.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Dec 10, 2007
Heading out to the Tucson vicinity in late March of '08, and am wondering if climbing at Mountain Lemmon will be tolerable, or will it be way too cold and incliment?
Also, my wife and I will be there for roughly a week and want to get a good sampling of the place--what areas at Mt. Lemmon should we visit if we want to climb trad/sport from 5.9 to 5.12?
A couple of down suits and plastic boots and you should be fine. :-)
Just kidding, Mt Lemmon is year round, maybe a few slightly nippier days still in early March, but that means maybe high 40s, low 50s (for highs?) on the lower parts of the mountain below Windy Point..Look for the south facing crags for almost all day sun and east facing for sun through early afternoon..I don't know the exact temps but it's really not cold unless you want to climb with snow on the ground in the elevations above Windy Point..Any snow below that usually melts during the day unless it's a storm day..
If you climb 5.10 trad you can't beat Chimney Rock for cragging..Milagrosa is probably good for harder sport climbing around that time of the year. I believe some areas near Tucson like The Dry and the Homestead have more of the steeper cave-style sport climbing.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Dec 10, 2007
Christian--
Plenty of ice up in these parts, so I plan on leaving the cold-weather-suffer-gear in the closet, thank you very much!
Yeah, I was checking out Chimney Rock...that place looks pretty rad for trad. What other areas/routes are worth visiting/climbing?
No problem in March unless we get a freak cold spell. If it is warm 80s you might be looking for shade. As you can see Jbak is a big badass so you can climb in his shadow like I do.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Dec 12, 2007
So when I arrive I should be looking for whatever is casting the biggest shadow, and that should be Jbak, right?!
Thanks for all the helpful advice; I'm really looking forward to this trip as I haven't climbed in Arizona in over 4 years.
Also, if anyone has reason to come to the Northeast this spring/summer/fall, please do, and look me up. I am always psyched to show fellow climbers what we have up here.
For trad lines Chimney Rock and Windy Point should set you up fine in March.
For those 5.12 sport lines: The Dry, The Beach, Jailhouse, Windy Point(New Wave) and The Helmet.
General March fun-in-sun: Milagrosa, Ruins, Sunspot, and Eric/Jim's soon-to-be-posted area between Jailhouse and Bear Cyn. March is prime time in So. Az. But then what month isn't ?
I'm not sure what Eric is trying to say about my ass. I'd probably rather not know. I do know it's easy to be a big man when you're surrounded by dwarves !
I found a digital camera at jailhouse rock on Saturday 6/29. It has photos of you climbing at ridgeline and on the cell blocks and a picture of a motorcycle. To claim just respond to this post and give me an email address, identify the camera and yourself and i would happily bring it to you.
Printer Friendly View
RSS Feed
Slideshow
