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Three Draws and a Little Lady 
unnamed unfinished 
Wily Javelina 

Wily Javelina 

5.9+ R

   

FA: Will McCarthy (1991)
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 700 feet
Season: Spring, Fall
Views: 83 page views

Submitted By: Luis Cisneros on Mar 18, 2008


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BETA PHOTO: Mendoza Canyon - Table Dome - Wily Javelina


Description 

This is a phenomenal line that wonders up a low angle wall. This canyon offers fantastic views. The line itself is very fun and climbs on different kinds of granite on every pitch.

The bolts are far apart though, and sometimes it may be hard to see them, but all anchors are bolted. When climbing it, if you get lost, keep looking for anchors. When the route is not clear, the climbing is easy, so just follow the 'easy-way' up and you surely will find the next belay station.

The rock may be a bit flaky some times, but generally is not a problem if you are a comfortable 5.9 climber. Notice: don't pull too hard out on the flakes, they usually expand and you may break them if you pull in the wrong direction... but if you play attention (and you want to play attention with this kind of run outs!) they work perfectly fine.

The first pitch is kind of the hardest one for your head, and maybe the most sustained one. If you survive this one, the rest will feel more smooth, with the exception of a few crux moves here and there.

The last pitch finishes on the big ledge under the rock feature on the top. You can scramble around the west side of this feature to summit. It really worth it!


Location 

The route starts close bellow of some brown water streak marks on the middle-right side of the wall. There is an obvious roof at the base of the streaks. The first bolt of Wily is about 30 feet left of the roof. This bolt is about 30 feet up from the base but the climbing is easy (the actual roof is the first pitch of Table for Two).

From the top, there is a rap line (5 raps) down over Table for Two that is save and goes straight down. You will need two ropes to rap down.


Protection 

The line is all bolted. A few nuts and plenty of slings for chicken heads come handy.
All the anchors are bolted but they have no chains, only slings. If you need to bail, consider changing a few of them.

Also, most bolts are new.