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Treibers Deception
Description
With an original rating of 5.5, after climbing it, one understands where this route got it's name. Even at it's current grade of 5.7, you might think theres still a bit of deception going on!
Stem your way up between the main wall and the boulder to reach a layback flake on the main wall. Get something in and then make the dicey-feeling move onto the main wall. Climb up the crack to a face protected by a bolt. Move out and around the left and up to a stance below a crack (bolt). Lever your way up this corner, following it up left to the base of a wide crack. This wide crack leads to the top.
Excellent climbing on this route, with moves that span the spectrum from face to crack, from laybacking to offwidth. The all-encompassing renaissance climb!
Location
Treiber's Deception is found on the southeast corner of Tom's Thumb where a boulder forms a chimney. This is the start of the route.
If you plan to hike up to Tom's Thumb to do just this route, I would reconsider. Maybe the best part of the climb is being on the summit. On the start, if you are short and can't reach the lieback hold up high, you'll have to make a stiff 5.9 fingertip pull to reach up. And there are two wide section up top. Unless you feel comfortable on wide stuff, I would bring at least one grey and one old #4 Camalot (the latter for the upper wide section).
Greg's opinion is probably the correct one. One wide piece of gear is you aren't climbing far beyond this grade. Otherwise, there are lots of face hold inside the offwidths, thus lessening thier severity (and the need for wide pro).
this was my second trad lead climb and it was a little scary. the bolts on the face section are old and sketchy but are there so i used them. i felt that the climb is broken into 3-4 boulder problems with good ledges to rest on after each "problem". the most difficult for me was the last section due to lack of a large cam (and lack of experience). getting past the beginning chimney section is a bit hight dependent. all in all i think its an excellent climb with lots of of variation in climbing style. so with that said.....you should climb it :)
Tom's Thumb
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