For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.
This is a view of the north face of Tom's Thumb. ...
Description
This is a killer line up the entire north face of Tom's Thumb. A treat for the well rounded trad climber. The start, in a box, appears unappealing but the jams are fun. Then undercling right with slick feet to a small right facing corner with a crack, which starts with tips but becomes more secure as you go higher. The short transition from roof to corner is about 10c or harder (I pulled on a piece to get around). The upper crack starts with a short section of wide hands and then becomes a very long run of offwidthing with some squeezing chimneys thrown in. The locals at Vedauwoo would be jealous. Gear anchor at the top. Walk right (west) to rappel anchors with slings and rap rings. Single rope rappel with a sixty meter.
Location
When you approach Tom's Thumb, walk around the base to the right into the shade. Only go a short distance and you will see a box with poor looking rock with a roof. The roof has a crack that angles up and right to a right facing corner and a wide crack going straight up from there.
Protection
Bring a full standard rack. You may want a thin fingertip piece like a black alien to help protect the start of the corner. As for the upper wide crack, I would take at least one offwidth piece which means long, long runouts. If you want protection every 10 feet, you'll need at least one green Camalot and several (3-4) offwidth pieces.
Hey Joe! Sorry, but that undercling on the first pitch (with the slippery feat) is definitely solid 5.10 something. The upper offwidths are scary and exposed, and the single bolt on the route is questionable (as of 2003). So in my humble opinion, you better be way solid at the grade (5.10), in order to do this climb. I bet Greg Opland will agree.
Just led this awesome climb!! One long pitch with everything from zero BD cam ( @ crux of slippery corner) to several #4s on the upper offwidth. Hmmm more like 10c IMHO. Great pro... can walk a #4 most the way up for the last 50 feet or so. New bolt at the start of the upper section. Do it!! Lou....
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