For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.
Zoom in on Garbonzo Bean. Also note the sickness o...
Description
This is the obvious upper offwidth crack on the West side of the N. face of Toms Thumb. The first pitch climbs a nice hand crack with good pro 5.7 that progessively gets easier up some face and crack to an alcolve roof directly below the upper offwidth section a good belay can be found here. Next P2 Traverse left onto the face "very exciting" and continue up to the wicked exposed and scary offwidth "grand fun" maybe pro with a 3.5 and a 4 camalot although we found ourselves moving up a 4 with some moderate runout.
Great climb... very nice handcrack for the first crack.. then long slings for the left traverse at the bird shit ledge.. ( was wet from recent rain ).. then up the off width... 5.9 IMHO... take some wide stuff for the upper or be comfortable with walking a BD 4 for a ways. Loose blocks on the upper part of the first crack just before the traverse.
lower crack was nice. For a single pitch run, bring long slings or deal with ropedrag or the potential whipper at the traverse - good exposure, poor pro below traverse, but can get some pro in at/above to the right (hence long slings). I'm not big on OW climbing anyway and found ropedrag to be an added drag. plus would've been nice to bring a #5.
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