For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.
Pitch 1: One of the best pitches on the thumb! Edge up the pointed boulder for 30' to the top of it with no pro. Don't blow it. Reach across the gap and clip your first bolt. Face climb up and left past 3 bolts to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. This first pitch is 5.10b and classic by itself. Pitch 2: Start on the right side of the ledge. Climb over horizontal overlaps to a bolt. Hard face moves above lead to a horizontal crack. Follow it up and right onto the summit.
Location
Located on the East face starting on a large pointed boulder. Can't miss it.
Protection
Quickdraws, Stoppers, and small to medium cams. Bring a 1.5 friend to place between the 1st and 2nd bolt.