This area has access issues. Please read the note available on the McDowell Mountains page.
BETA PHOTO: McDowells
Description
Tom's Thumb is a prominent 140-foot plug of desert granite that perches atop the McDowell Mountains ridgeline. It is visible from miles in all directions. Originally called "The Dork" by the old time Phoenix climbers, it was rechristened Tom's Thumb in honor of climber Tom Kreuser back in the day.
The rock and the routes on Tom's Thumb are mostly in the excellent range. The harder routes here are some of the best you'll find on any granite crag in the Phoenix area. Because of the slightly burly approach, and the general notion that granite climbing is out of style these days in Phoenix, you're not likely to have to share any routes while visiting the Thumb.
Beautiful, incredibly classic place to climb.
Getting There
Approach as for Gardener's Wall parking, but pick out a trail through the desert aiming for a drainage leading straight down the hillside from the Thumb. Watch out for snakes in the warm times of the year!
A nice day of moderate climbing can also be done by approaching Gardener's Wall, climbing a route to the top, and then downclimbing off the back and hiking up to Tom's Thumb for more fun!
My buddy Harry and I climbed up on Gardener's yesterday, and saw and heard peregrine falcons on Tom's Thumb. There is a considerable amount of whitewash on the central face as well, meaning nesting birds are likely using the crag. I am not sure of the ownership or regs. in this area, but it would behoove the climbing community to avoid Tom's Thumb's climbs until mid summer...not like anyone will be climbing much then, but...
Please respect the right of these recovering birds to survive, don't climb at Toms Thumb during breeding season, regulations or not!
Tom's Thumb
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