For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.
BETA PHOTO: Long crack in the middle of the picture.
Description
A really fun route on the looker's left end of Sven Slab. It's an obvious right leaning crack going up the left wall of a gully. Longer than it looks. A very enjoyable pitch, with a crux or two, bomber gear, great easy crack climb. Belay from a tree on a big ledge. A guidebook described a 2nd, pitch, it didn't look worth doing. A quick scramble up and to the right puts you on the ridge and a nice summit. Walk climber's left from the ledge and scramble back to the base to get down.
Location
The last clean rock on the far left hand side of Sven slab.
Protection
Gear through hands. Be aware you need to place a fair amount of gear to protect from swinging into the gully.
We were going to do this one after The Chute, but we observed considerable Bee activity next to One For the Road and decided to skip it. There may be a nest in the gully to the left of the climb about half way up so use caution.
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