For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.
Sven Slab, so named because a Sven saw was used to cut the original trail up to the wall, is probably the most popular granite climbing location near Phoenix after Pinnacle Peak. This is the place to hone those sturdy foot muscles on thin granite crystal and edge climbing. The main wall is home to several nice moderate outings, while the outrigger crag down to the right features some additional harder lines.
Getting There
Drive south from the intersection of 128th street and Dynamite Road/Rio Verde Drive until you get to a "T", make a left and drive east (high clearance required!!!) until you reach the parking area below Sven Slab. It is possible to drive to the upper area and park there if you want to put your vehicle through it's paces and skip the two minutes it takes to walk up the hill.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sven Slab:
A really fun route on the looker's left end of Sven Slab. It's an obvious right leaning crack going up the left wall of a gully. Longer than it looks. A very enjoyable pitch, with a crux or two, bomber gear, great easy crack climb. Belay from a tree on a big ledge. A guidebook described a 2nd, pitch, it didn't look worth doing. A quick scramble up and to the right puts you on the ridge and a nice summit. Walk climber's left from the ledge and scr...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
Note : Getting There - "It is possible to drive to the upper area and park there if you want to put your vehicle through its paces and skip the two minutes it takes to walk up the hill." It is no longer possible or appropriate to do the prior, as you will find fencing!
At this time you must park just off the main access road in what are a couple places to park a few vehicles! If you have higher clearance drive further east to the end to conserve low clearance access for others. This area official resides within the boundaries of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve and should be treated as such!
Just a heads up, made an attempt to climb One for the Road yesterday but got chased off by bees that look like they have a hive at the top of the first pitch. My partner and I moved over to the main bolted area, but were still getting harassed by bees.
Still, to this day there are bees, likely Africanized, as they are persistent in there harassment / attacks, still atop and around the Sven’s Slab formation.
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