For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.
Hard crack start that eases up considerably after ~ 6 meters. I found the first 3-4 meters to be the most difficult; the crux is the first 4 meters. NOTE: I think this climb goes at 5.8+.
Location
This climb is the most obvious line on the N, N-E face. Look for a nice hand crack just to the right of Space Cadets. The line passes a small roof to the right and goes up a right facing corner (5.4 climbing). Exit left through a weakness once you surmount a huge block .
Protection
Standard Rack. There is a fixed rap station about 20 m (65 ft) up and two hangers with chains at the top of the climb. Thus, you can get off with one or two ropes.
This route is so terrific, it's basically my favorite 5.7 in the state. Very stiff for the grade, however, so it's not really 5.7!!! DAS has the rating about right at 8+. I do it in two pitches and find the climbing fairly continuous. Start of p2 is also quite difficult and SLIPPERY but fun, fun, fun. Bring a #5 Camalot for the OW at the top.
This route is continous and slippery near the bottom...half way up the crack there is a weird blank section for placing gear...Think I used a BD nut... The upper pitch has a nice Chimmney section or you can just grab either side of the block and heave up like I did. We did a double rope rappell
WOW! Awesome climb. I thought...yeah right, this start doesn't look slippery. Whoops, fell on my first piece when my foot slipped. Over compensate the # of draws that you think. Does a #5 really protect that squeeze? I had a 4 that I definitely couldn't use. Watch for HUGE drag at the top (big sling?). Careful to stay left on the repel or face a bad edge.
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