This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the McDowell Mountains page.
Description
First I've got to say I only climbed the first 80' or so, I belayed and ended up rapping off from under the roof. This thing is action-packed. The first 35' or so is a tenuous seam that is quite delicate and takes thin gear. This is listed as 5.9 in the book, harder in my opinion. Gain a ledge, clip an old bolt, continue up into a slanting hand crack. Have fun switching from jams to lieback when it opens up. I belayed under the roof, but the route continues up past the roof, through another seam, eventually to a 2 bolt anchor. 2 rope rappel from that point, 1 rope gets down from under the roof.
One of the better single pitches of granite I've done.
Location
Two crack systems angle up the North facing wall on Morrell Wall in an upside down V, almost converging below a small roof with a rappel rope slung in it. Space Cadets is the left hand crack. The right hand crack is listed as 5.7.
Protection
I placed small TCUs and nuts in the seam, gear up to #3 camalot for the rest.
The seam on the beginning is very thin, use 00 and 0's in the seam and easy footwork as you bring your body up, easier as you go up to the roof.
By Eyes Of Green From: Phoenix, AZ May 1, 2008 rating: 5.10a/b PG13
This route is effing awesome. But don't be a space cadet when you lead this, especially on the second pitch--holy dangerous runout, Batman! Steep slab protected by two manky bolts and no other options for pro once you're on this section; a lead fall could result in some bad boo-boos through there. Be solid at the 5.10 grade. Very, very excellent.
(Note: I said second pitch because this was originally listed as two and because that is the way my partner and I did it in order to hear each other on a very windy day.)
Morrell's Wall
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