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McDowell Mountains
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McDowell Mountains

Submitted By: Orphaned on Jan 19, 2006
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel
Elevation: 2,500 feet
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A few random boulders seen out in the McDowel Moun...


Description 

The McDowell Mountains feature most of the main granite climbing crags in the northeast metro Phoenix area. Several fine formations of rough grained desert granite are found in the area featuring routes of all difficulties. Although development of the area is ongoing and encroaching on the McDowells, they're still a wonderful natural area to spend the day in. The climbing is traditional in nature, both gear and bolted routes.


Getting There 

The McDowells are located in northeast Scottsdale, just to the east/southeast of Pinnacle Peak. Drive south from the intersection of Dynamite Road and 128th Street (dirt) to a "T". The various crags are above you along the ridgeline.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for McDowell Mountains:
Hanging Gardens   5.5     Trad, 2 pitches   Gardeners Wall
Quaker Oats   5.5     Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet   Sven Slab
One for the Road   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Sven Slab
The Phantom   5.7 R     Trad, 2 pitches, 190 feet   Gardeners Wall
Garbonzo Bean   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet, Grade II   Tom's Thumb
Renaissance Direct   5.7 R     Trad, 2 pitches   Gardeners Wall
Treiber's Deception   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Tom's Thumb
Browse More Classics in McDowell Mountains

Featured Route For McDowell Mountains
Beginning of One for the Road.  Super fun route.

One for the Road 5.6  AZ : McDowell Mountains : Sven Slab
A really fun route on the looker's left end of Sven Slab. It's an obvious right leaning crack going up the left wall of a gully. Longer than it looks. A very enjoyable pitch, with a crux or two, bomber gear, great easy crack climb. Belay from a tree on a big ledge. A guidebook described a 2nd, pitch, it didn't look worth doing. A quick scramble up and to the right puts you on the ridge and a nice summit. Walk climber's left from the ledge and scr...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ


Photos of McDowell Mountains Slideshow Add Photo
A little closer- random nice boulders near Mt McDowel. Photo by Tony Bubb, 12/2003.

A little closer- random nice boulders near Mt McDo...

I think that is Morrell's wall in the center and Tom's Thumb sticking up at center right.

BETA PHOTO: I think that is Morrell's wall in the center and T...

Thimble or Thumb Butte - Atop a ridge in the McDowell Mountains (north.west)

Thimble or Thumb Butte - Atop a ridge in the McDow...

East side of the Boulder Wash trails, past the point to cross for the wall climbs and before the trail leads you back east to this ridge continuing up and behind the Wall and on to the Thumb which is out of sight in this photo.

East side of the Boulder Wash trails, past the poi...

A good look @ The Waffles, as I like too say, and the most difficult & or challenging<br />Boulder problem in the range, V10+. Terribly thin right leaning finger seem/crack! <br />Easier ways to butter your waffles! :)<br />

BETA PHOTO: A good look @ The Waffles, as I like too say, and ...

Maybe Zeus and Hera had a unicorn, and this is her tail as she runs toward the sun.<br /><br />January 2007

Maybe Zeus and Hera had a unicorn, and this is her...

Morrell's Wall from the wash approach to Sven Towers III

Morrell's Wall from the wash approach to Sven Towe...

Rick descending the Tom's Thumb trail.  The closest house down the steep hill is near the entrance to the wash and old parking area.  That entry is closed and considered critical wildlife habitat.

BETA PHOTO: Rick descending the Tom's Thumb trail. The closes...

View from the base of One for the Road on the Sven Slab.

View from the base of One for the Road on the Sven...


Comments on McDowell Mountains Add Comment
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By Dalon Morgan
Jan 22, 2008

The expanding sea of houses has made access easier, at least for now. No need to go around on Dynamite and 128th. From Pima Road, turn east on Happy Valley; right on E. Alameda; right on 119th Way; take your next two lefts (E. Casitas and E. Paraiso). The pavement will end and you're at the base of Gardeners Wall/Tom's Thumb area.

By CTK
From: Scottsdale
May 1, 2008

Yes in fact that is the Dome Wall, or Morell's Wall as it's often referred. That Photo is captured during summer from atop the Slab Ridge, or Sven's Slab as its known, looking South - West to the Wall as well as the Granite Thimble, or The Thumb.

By CTK
From: Scottsdale
May 1, 2008

Generally, climbing in the McDowell Mountains means stiff ratings to include run-out’s as many of the routes are longtime established. Expect a wide variety of formations on varying quality of Granite. Hours Sunrise to Sunset, Stay on well established trails, No off-road driving, & No Fires or Camping!

By Scott Z
From: Peoria, AZ
Feb 8, 2009

looks to be a new trail going up the ridgeline to the right (looking north from the thumb) that meets up with the gully north of Gardner's Wall and continues SE. permanent access spot???

By Tradster
From: Phoenix AZ
Jun 15, 2009

The access to Gardener's Wall and Tom's Thumb has changed. The City of Scottsdale requires you to park over near Morrell's Wall and to take the new trail from that point. This will add at least 45 minutes to any Gardener's Wall approach and about the same to Tom's Thumb.