For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.
A few random boulders seen out in the McDowel Moun...
Description
The McDowell Mountains feature most of the main granite climbing crags in the northeast metro Phoenix area. Several fine formations of rough grained desert granite are found in the area featuring routes of all difficulties. Although development of the area is ongoing and encroaching on the McDowells, they're still a wonderful natural area to spend the day in. The climbing is traditional in nature, both gear and bolted routes.
Getting There
The McDowells are located in northeast Scottsdale, just to the east/southeast of Pinnacle Peak. Drive south from the intersection of Dynamite Road and 128th Street (dirt) to a "T". The various crags are above you along the ridgeline.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for McDowell Mountains:
A really fun route on the looker's left end of Sven Slab. It's an obvious right leaning crack going up the left wall of a gully. Longer than it looks. A very enjoyable pitch, with a crux or two, bomber gear, great easy crack climb. Belay from a tree on a big ledge. A guidebook described a 2nd, pitch, it didn't look worth doing. A quick scramble up and to the right puts you on the ridge and a nice summit. Walk climber's left from the ledge and scr...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
The expanding sea of houses has made access easier, at least for now. No need to go around on Dynamite and 128th. From Pima Road, turn east on Happy Valley; right on E. Alameda; right on 119th Way; take your next two lefts (E. Casitas and E. Paraiso). The pavement will end and you're at the base of Gardeners Wall/Tom's Thumb area.
Yes in fact that is the Dome Wall, or Morell's Wall as it's often referred. That Photo is captured during summer from atop the Slab Ridge, or Sven's Slab as its known, looking South - West to the Wall as well as the Granite Thimble, or The Thumb.
Generally, climbing in the McDowell Mountains means stiff ratings to include run-out’s as many of the routes are longtime established. Expect a wide variety of formations on varying quality of Granite. Hours Sunrise to Sunset, Stay on well established trails, No off-road driving, & No Fires or Camping!
looks to be a new trail going up the ridgeline to the right (looking north from the thumb) that meets up with the gully north of Gardner's Wall and continues SE. permanent access spot???
The access to Gardener's Wall and Tom's Thumb has changed. The City of Scottsdale requires you to park over near Morrell's Wall and to take the new trail from that point. This will add at least 45 minutes to any Gardener's Wall approach and about the same to Tom's Thumb.
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