Starts on featured rock to a funky squeeze around a block to reach the anchors.
Details: Mordor starts with some pocket pulling up to a small bulge/roof. Once you get past that, you run up about fifteen feet of slab to where the wall goes to slightly overhanging again. Pull up and out a bit left on good pockets and the wall eases back to vertical. Work edges and pockets up to the finishing block, that has cracks on both sides. Some like the left, some like to offwidth the right side. Don't forget to clip the last bolt on the outside of the block!
Protection
8 bolts to chains. Please don't toprope off the chains.
Start of Mordor is a tad harder these days after the chunk of stone holding the first bolt and starting holds peeled off this winter. Has been rebolted and other loose rock cleaned thanks to Chris Thornley I believe. Thanks Chris!
By Tavis Ricksecker From: flagstaff, az Dec 11, 2007 rating: 5.11a
I'd say the start is way harder. The opening moves used to be a breeze, now they seem at least as hard as True Value. And you still have the upper cruxes...