Not to step on any toes but there may be better places to spend your money on hardware other than trying to cram one more route in at the Pit. Good effort none the less.
By Greg DeMatteo From: Flagstaff, Az Oct 24, 2008 rating: 5.10-
The route went up Wednesday and there is still some brushing to do. Eric didn't have the right tool to remove the blown bolt and will be returning soon to patch that up. Camoing the anchors is a good idea.
As for the route spot, I would have been the first to complain about another route "squeezed in" but it is a fully independent line and isn't contrived. It's a short but quality route at a grade where moderate climbers and folks looking for more warm ups will enjoy and appreciate it. There are a lack of easier routes at the Pit and I can see this one getting plenty of traffic.
I say thanks to Eric for putting in the effort and the cash on a moderate route. The Pit can certainly use more moderates instead of another .12+ project.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree Oct 27, 2008 rating: 5.10
Dean.... better place to spend money on hardware? You mean like new and undeveloped areas? Needed bolt replacements? Scary back country crags?
Erik has done them all plus some. To me, if he (and a few other locals) felt they could get a quality line in at the Pit, then let them. As for squeeze jobs... perhaps. Erik mentioned (on a different forum so how would you know) that he felt it would actually add to the area which is ever so popular with few moderates for people to hang on. I've seen people camp all day with a top rope on Popeye. Perhaps this will give them something to try that they otherwise wouldn't have.
On a side note, nearly that entire crag has fresh anchors already and it is in the process of an anchor replacement process now. Perhaps the idea of painted anchors should be posted on that thread too? I agree, it's never to late to at least disguise impact.
Funguy, If you're going to hop on the TR turned FA bandwagon you've got a lot of typing to do. This phenomenon happens and nearly every crag in the country.
Erik, please change your route description to reflect FFA and next time you've got $50 to burn take it up with a committee first.
Second the warm-up quality of the route, we need more moderates at the pit. I like using the arete though, keeps it stellar! I'd go with the 5.9+ only because the top can be a bit dicey with out any beta on the low right, hard to see from above, foot. Thanks guys!