JB at tech crux of Milanoma. Photo by Andrew Korny...
Description
4th route from the right. Starts with fairly large holds to a big move off a crimp to a big hold. Then a sidepull to more big holds. Shake out the best you can and then head into the technical crux. Do a few more moves and go for the redpoint crux. Follow the good holds to the anchor.
Great redpoint candidate for the 11d - 12a/b climber as the climbing is powerful with decent opportunities for rest before heading into cruxes. Stays in shade late into spring even when the Sunnyside is baking.
By jbak From: Tucson, AZ Dec 15, 2006 rating: 5.12b/c
This climb has one of the coolest rests I've ever seen just before the final crux. See if you can find it.
About as action packed as a 35 foot route can be.
Starts just right of Holeo and left of Blood Meridian.
By Tommy Wilson From: Tucson, AZ Feb 7, 2008 rating: 5.12c
This is a super rad sport route. Super fun cruxes, decent rests, and cool movement throughout. That said, is it really only 35 feet? My weaksauce-endurance-sense says its a bit more (50?). At any rate, thanks to the people responsible for cleaning this entire wall. Stellar stellar climbing.
By jbak From: Tucson, AZ Feb 7, 2008 rating: 5.12b/c
Tommy, thanks for the kind words. Todd (McG...AKA T-1) spent hours cleaning that thing. It was a pile. He intended for me to do the FA but I got more interested in the route just left of it.
I believe if you actually measured it you would find 35 feet is pretty close. Most people over-estimate the height of routes. But 35 of near perfection is a lot. It's all meat with no fat, kind of like Spinal Twist at the Dry. Maybe it's 40 feet if you count the little zig-zag near the end.