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Milanoma 

5.12b/c

   

FA: T1, JB, BKristofitz
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 35 feet
Views: 572 page views

Submitted By: WSnyder on Feb 16, 2006


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JB at tech crux of Milanoma. Photo by Andrew Korny...


Description 

4th route from the right. Starts with fairly large holds to a big move off a crimp to a big hold. Then a sidepull to more big holds. Shake out the best you can and then head into the technical crux. Do a few more moves and go for the redpoint crux. Follow the good holds to the anchor.


Protection 

Bolts, Chains



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By GDS
Jul 14, 2006
rating: 5.12b/c

Great redpoint candidate for the 11d - 12a/b climber as the climbing is powerful with decent opportunities for rest before heading into cruxes. Stays in shade late into spring even when the Sunnyside is baking.

By jbak
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 15, 2006
rating: 5.12b/c

This climb has one of the coolest rests I've ever seen just before the final crux. See if you can find it.

About as action packed as a 35 foot route can be.

Starts just right of Holeo and left of Blood Meridian.

By Tommy Wilson
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 7, 2008
rating: 5.12c

This is a super rad sport route. Super fun cruxes, decent rests, and cool movement throughout. That said, is it really only 35 feet? My weaksauce-endurance-sense says its a bit more (50?). At any rate, thanks to the people responsible for cleaning this entire wall. Stellar stellar climbing.

By jbak
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 7, 2008
rating: 5.12b/c

Tommy, thanks for the kind words. Todd (McG...AKA T-1) spent hours cleaning that thing. It was a pile. He intended for me to do the FA but I got more interested in the route just left of it.

I believe if you actually measured it you would find 35 feet is pretty close. Most people over-estimate the height of routes. But 35 of near perfection is a lot. It's all meat with no fat, kind of like Spinal Twist at the Dry. Maybe it's 40 feet if you count the little zig-zag near the end.