This crag has two 5.11's, a few 5.12's and a few 5.13's. It is located above and left of the main Sunnyside wall and is a steep little wall with some impressive overhangs on its left side. It catches lots of morning sun, and can be VERY hot in direct sun, so it's necessary to have a strategy to avoid the heat. You can: Go on a day when the temperature is below 60. Go on a cloudy day. Go later in the afternoon when the sun angle is more favorable. As the sun swings north in the spring, the crag gets good shade about mid-afternoon. So Feb, March and April are good months to make a mid-to-late afternoon visit. In April, most of the routes are in shade by 1 p.m. The wall is shaped like a breaking wave. It starts at 20 deg. overhung on the right side, and breaks to about 60 deg. overhung on the left. The routes are steep and sustained.
Getting There
Follow the map provided. Take the upper trail then cut right on the spur trail and follow it past the Cheese Block a ways then take the split left up to The Beach.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Beach:
Eclipse - 12d - the big roof Pipeline - 13a - shoots out the right side of the curl. No War - 13+ - the sharp arete Blood Meridian - 12+ - up to the seam Milanoma - 12 - up the blocks Holeo - 13a - up past the small deep hueco Solar Power - 12a - starts from the crappy ledge Hang Eleven - 11c - furthest right on the crappy ledge
Good warmup is Tragically Hip (11a) down below The Beach.
What is the route that traverses left from near the start of Eclipse? Looks like you have a pretty good chance of ground fall for much of the route. Is it safer than it looks? More fun than it looks?
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
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