This climb is unnamed and rated 5.10 in the Tucson Select Sport Climbing book. It has some hard moves and the clips are very tricky and sketchy on the lower part. The crux move feels harder than straight 5.10.
Location
Leftmost route on the Main Wall, left of I've Been Robbed.
Maybe some day... a generous person will improve the bolt locations on this route, by either moving the first bolt up, or the second bolt down. I've seen one bad fall with the climber hitting the belayer in the head, hard.
The second bolt should be moved down. The next time I'm in there with the old Bosch I'll move it.
By Rick Shull Administrator From: Arcata, CA Jan 22, 2007 rating: 5.10+
This route would be pretty decent without the deck potential. It's thin all the way through from the 1st to 2nd bolt making the clip difficult even if the bolt were lower. I decked from about 15+ feet(at the 2nd clip) and the rope came tight just as I hit, keeping me from falling backward down the hill. I pulled through 2nd try using a different clipping hold. What turned out to be a normal day sport climbing could of been bad if my belayer had been standing directly below me. I had assessed the route and noticed the ground fall potential, so I asked my belayer to stand off to one side. Just a reminder to be "heads up".
I'm the climber Steve means by his 'cracking the belayer in the head' anecdote. Moving between the 1st and 2nd bolts is the crux, and since the bolt placements are horrible at best, you're basically doing it sans pro. In my opinion, the crux is the only 5.10 move on this climb, the rest is 8-9 at best and not enjoyable. Avoid.
After thinking a little more about this, I'm not really sure where the bolts should be. All I know is I don't like the clipping stance for the second bolt.
Main Wall
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