Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Show routes:
Select route...
Community Service 
Ecstatic Electricity 
Fourplay 
I've Been Robbed 
Last Lonely Eagle 
Litheon Flux 
Lugee Head 
Short Vacation 
Stealin 
Unknown 
Unknown -please notify if you know 
Unnamed Mixed Route 
Valentine Arete 
Valentine Corner 
Welcome to Milagrosa 
Where the Buffalo Roam 
Wizard, The 

I've Been Robbed 

5.11b/c

   

FA: Mike Arqueso
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 279 page views

Submitted By: dcohn on Dec 10, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

I thought this route was called Stealin' but it is actually I've Been Robbed. See comments.

It is a short climb that packs a lot in. I like starting in the crack and ignoring all of the big holds to the left. It makes the climb more challenging and forces you to make some stylish moves. The crux near the top of the route involves pulling on pretty small holds.


Location 

second bolted route to the left of Valentine's Day Arete, second to last route on main wall


Protection 

quickdraws



Add Comment Comments on I've Been Robbed
Show which comments
By Jimbo
Dec 11, 2006

The route to the left of Stealin is relatively new. One used to climb left onto this new route and then head back right to finish Stealin. Which kept the grade closer to .11a/b. It's now much harder, as people go straight up avoiding climbing onto the newer route.
By the way, who ever bolted this newer route I'm referring to, should move the 2nd bolt down. Right now you've got to do the crux before you get it clipped and it's a ground fall. The clipping hold is also very small.

It's a sport route, keep people off the ground!!

Give me the world and I'll re-drill it where it should be.

By jbak
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 11, 2006
rating: 5.11

The climb you describe is named "I Been Robbed" by Mike Arqueso done around '92. The name was uttered by someone who missed the on-sight.
Mike originally intended that people would climb straight over the bolts but drifting left is just too tempting.

Stealin' is the 10d/lla between I Been Robbed and V Arete.

The left-most route was originally done with no bolts by Scott Ayers....free solo I believe. He was surprised that it had been drilled.

By susan peplow
From: what day is this?
Feb 6, 2007

5 bolts to chain anchor. Last few moves pretty steep and difficult giving it the 11b rating. Stiffer than Stealin directly to the right.

By Tommy Wilson
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 14, 2008
rating: 5.11c

Tough crux crimp move comparable to (if not harder than) the low crux on Ecstatic Electricity. If you don't move out left to the mercy holds 5.11c/d. Fun route.