Clean rock, moderately pumpy, great warm-up. It was my friend's first .10a lead so it also good for new 10 leaders.
Location
It is the fourth bolted route on the main wall as you enter the canyon. It is just to left of a large crack and to the right of a corner with some difficult sport climbs.
The pro is adequate, and it has been led on gear. Travis have you climbed this route?, because bitching about a "bolted crack" having not climbed it on gear is bogus. It was decided by the person who drilled most of the routes in La Milagrosa the he was doing a "Community Service" by bolting this route as a warm up. In his defense it is the most climbed route in the canyon, as every one warms up on it. Also very few people even bring gear to La Milagrosa. There are, however many fine gear routes to do there that aren't bolted, and they all have chains at the top for the easy lower off thanks to area developer.
Was I bitching, Jimbo? I thought I was only asking a question. Which you answered: convenience is what is up with the bolted crack. And my name is Tavis, not Travis.
Ironically, it was Jimbo himself belaying me as I climbed this route yesterday and clipped the bolts. I can see why it gets done a lot more with bolts: the crack is thin, shallow, slippery, and just loose enough that climbing this thing on gear would be quite exciting. I didn't even bother to bring the rack down to Tucson!
Thanks again to Jim and Eric for being great hosts and guides.
I still pity the fool who climbs on Mr T's Chosspile, though. :)
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