An outstanding route located in the round, amphitheater portion of The Main Wall. Thin ledges down low lead to a shallow dihedral and a large flake located below the anchors. Precise footwork on meager footholds will help alleviate some of the pump at several clip stances. The rock in this area tends to hold chalk even after a rain, so don't be surprised if you feel like the holds have already been "ticked".
Location
The second line of bolts left of the obvious, bolted crack route - Community Service.
Protection
Bolts: well protected. Chains for rappel or lower.
A beautiful route with two distinct cruxes: one down low and one up high.
This is the second .12 I've redpointed, the other being Sentenced to Hang, which gets a consensus grade of .12b. Obviously, that's not much by way of perspective (though I've done my fair share of hard .11s), but this feels at least as hard as Sentenced to me if not a little a harder. The two cruxes are harder than the crux on Sentenced (both technically and in terms of strength), it's more sustained, and has a couple of very tough clips. Obviously, the two routes are very different in terms of style, but I'm better at Wizard-esque climbing and I still think it's as hard as Sentenced. So I propose hard .12b (definitely the crux move on Milanoma (.12c) is much harder than any move on the Wizard).
I suppose it doesn't matter much what it's graded, but I think these discussions are interesting and I'm always trying to get a better understanding of how people grade things.
ian...I will give you the straight poop...Wizard is 12a (max !) but delicate so it may feel harder if you're not used to that kind of thing. Sentenced is 12a/b so not much difference there. Milanoma is probably NOT 12c...more like b/c. These are minor shadings of difficulty for sure, but you said you were interested so there you go.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
