Mountain Project: Climbing La Milagrosa Canyon

A popular wall with the greatest concentration of climbs in thge canyon. Beautiful smooth orange faces with lots of crimps, as well as two of the canyon's most popular routes, Community Service (.10a) and Valentine Arete (.8) The northerly orientation make this a good place to chase shade, but that means it can be cold on chilly winter days. Gets some late-afternoon sun, which really makes the rock glow.

Getting There

The first section of climbable-looking rock off the main (not upper) trail. The first couple routes are easy to miss; they start on a platform. When you get to an obvious clearing about a minute later, you'll see a couple chalky cracks and a large throne of rock. This is the base of Community Service. The bulk of the routes start here. Plan on about 25-30 minutes for the approach from the parking area.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:

Valentine Arete 5.8+ Sport

Community Service 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch

Unnamed Mixed Route 5.10a/b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Welcome to Milagrosa 5.10a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet

Last Lonely Eagle 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet

Where the Buffalo Roam 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet

Stealin 5.11a Sport

Fourplay 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch

I've Been Robbed 5.11b/c Sport, 1 pitch

The Wizard 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet

Ecstatic Electricity 5.12- Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet

Featured Route For Main Wall

The Wizard 5.12a AZ : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall

An outstanding route located in the round, amphitheater portion of The Main Wall. Thin ledges down low lead to a shallow dihedral and a large flake located below the anchors. Precise footwork on meager footholds will help alleviate some of the pump at several clip stances. The rock in this area tends to hold chalk even after a rain, so don't be surprised if you feel like the holds have already been "ticked". ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ

Comments on Main Wall

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By Braxton Norwood
From: Tucson
Jan 9, 2008

How's the .12 just right of Valentine's Arete?

By jbaker
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 9, 2008

I gave it one star. It seemed pretty contrived to me. But I haven't touched it in 15 years and my tastes have changed in that time. The name is "Send It", FA is Ayers.

By Andrew Haag
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 8, 2009

There is an offwidth/corner with a single bolt anchor up top. Its located maybe 2 or 3 sport climbs south of valentines arete. Does anyone know anything about this route?

By Braxton Norwood
From: Tucson
Feb 9, 2009

If we're thinking about the same thing, I put that "anchor" in. After climbing the crack (which wasn't great), I put a bolt in so that I wouldn't have to leave any gear, since there would be no safe way down without it. IMO, the face below the bolt isn't worthwhile, either.

By Andrew Haag
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 10, 2009

I climbed about halfway up and kept knocking off loose rock. After a large rock came off and nailed my belayer in the arm and face, I downclimbed and cleaned gear on my way down. Maybe the bolt should be removed so people dont think theres a route there, or maybe we should clean it so people wont kill there belayer.

By Chelsea Cook
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 1, 2009

If anyone lost a tobacco pipe here, message me describing it and I will arrange to get it back to you.

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Main Wall

Description

Getting There

The Classics