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Jim's Buttress
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Hootenanny 
Jim Dandy 

Hootenanny 

5.11c

   

FA: Trevor Bowman,JSt,'09
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 90 feet
Views: 181 page views

Submitted By: Eric Rhicard on Mar 11, 2009


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Trevor Bowman on the FA.


Description 

Tricky start just above the belay with fun climbing to a great final crux roof move.


Location 

On the west face of the buttress it starts from a ledge about 30 ft. up.


Protection 

Bolts and a #2 and #3 camalot for the final crack.



Photos of Hootenanny Slideshow Add Photo
EFR heading up to the final roof crux.

EFR heading up to the final roof crux.

The line of Hootenenanny.

The line of Hootenenanny.

Erica Bigio cranks through the lower crux.

Erica Bigio cranks through the lower crux.

Jesse Schultz half way up the climb.

Jesse Schultz half way up the climb.

Jesse working through the first of numerous cruxes.

Jesse working through the first of numerous cruxes...


Comments on Hootenanny Add Comment
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By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Mar 25, 2009

Just a couple of additions to Eric's description: There are 8 bolts on the line and both the bottom crux crimpy bit and the roof are bolt protected. A #1 and #2 (#3 is too big I think) camalot work well in the upper crack, which is 20' of great 5.8/9 hand and finger. Longer runners on some of the bolts are advisable, as the route weaves around a good bit, especially in the middle section. There are also clip-and-lower anchors, although cleaning while lowering can be a bit problematic. The route's about 100' long.

This is a cool varied climb, offering sequential crimping, funky balance climbing, a classic roof pull, and some fun easier crack. Many thanks to Jim Scott for graciously giving me first lead on my birthday! The name comes from the resident Great Horned owls which were hooting from a hidden roost nearby while we were working on the route.