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Mental Block Party 

5.11a

   

FA: Chris Hahn - 4/96
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Views: 88 page views

Submitted By: susan peplow on Apr 4, 2007


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Description 

Just left of the crack (Betty Cracker 5.9) this route starts easily enough but soon after the moves and holds get thin.

Vertical route with crimpy holds on that super grippy dark grey rock. It's nice.


Location 

While walking in from the main trail you'll come across a large low angle boulder (sinker 5.5)just above the wash bottom. Directly in front of the boulder is a courtyard that gets early morning shade year round. Third route from the right on the south facing wall.


Protection 

6 shuts plus anchor



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By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff/Tucson, AZ
Dec 2, 2007
rating: 5.10d

The guidebook calls this route "sustained" but I found it to be anything but. The crux was short, more based upon solid technique than strength, and was followed by a nearly no-hands rest and a bunch of really positive holds to the top. Didn't really seem 11.

That said, this is a good 10/10+ with some fun moves and great holds.

By susan peplow
From: what day is this?
Jun 9, 2008

Andrew, I agree the crux is short but it's still probably a series of .11 moves to get past it. Small pockets and somewhat technical on vertical rock. It only takes one move of .11 to make the grade. The upper section eases but the crux still packs a punch.