Nearing the overhanging bulge at the top of the ro...
Description
This is a really nice route that goes up on nice big moves to an overhang finish. The guidebook originally rated it 10d and then upgraded it to 11a. If you move right at the top, rather than going straight up the bulge, you may think this is the easiest 11a on the planet.
Protection
5 bolts and shuts.
Location
This route starts just right of the corner system where Best Seller is found. Far left end of the Cracker Jack Cliffs, just right of a big overhang.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree Apr 2, 2007 rating: 5.10c/d
Did the route today for the first time in many years. The route is fun and provides enjoyable 10+ climbing to the steep top section.
Don't think it's all fun and games though and be prepared for a lack of the clipping holds when going for the anchor. You've got a shoulder height side pull for your right to clip from and that's about it with the exception of a good stance.
Route is good, softer than the guidebook but not a gimme. Today, to me, it felt awkward clipping with the bent elbow right arm.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Oct 9, 2007 rating: 5.10b/c
Greg Opland said: "If you move right at the top, rather than going straight up the bulge, you may think this is the easiest 11a on the planet."
So true! We were thinking it was 10b-ish but, of course, we were grabbing the big ledge on the right side of the anchors at the bulge. It didn't seem unreasonable or off the route to grab that and, in fact, I think it would be a very strenuous anchor clip without it.
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