Aesthetic and a must-do novelty, but by no means classic. I wouldn't stick a conservative beginning leader on a traversing route like this, but that's just me. Bakes in the sun and inaccessible during periods of high water.
Agreed, Hillary! Our group had two relatively new leaders get on this route last weekend and both got stymied at the third bolt where the small pockets disappear for a moment and one must rely on smearing on dished areas in the rock. Granted, with the angle of the rock it's not hard but it's hard to commit to when you're a new leader.
Neat route!
By Andrew Ryder From: Flagstaff/Tucson, AZ Dec 3, 2007 rating: 5.5
Sorry guys, but I respectfully disagree... we had a brand new leader on this route yesterday (i.e. this was his first day leading) and he did just fine. What's wrong with a new leader having to commit to small footholds? Sounds like a good thing to me, especially on a well-protected route like this. It's not like you're going a long way or hitting the ground if you fall, since there's 5 bolts in barely 30 feet of climbing and the hard part is near the top. Plus, a third can scramble up the side of the boulder and make sure the leader sets up the anchors properly. I don't think it gets much better for a first lead.
Its a great first lead because it is safe but if they are really conservative then they can still get a taste of the terror that is to come with future lead climbing.