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Crack Dealer 

5.11a/b

   

FA: Deidre Burton - 3/96
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a/b [details]
Length: 45 feet
Views: 209 page views

Submitted By: susan peplow on Mar 21, 2007


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Description 

Just right of Sports Book. Opening moves are tough as you use side pulls and reach high to an undercling. The crux is likely the first few bolts but the fun doesn't end 'til you clip the anchors!


Location 

Directly right of "Sports Book". The start and finish of these two routes are kinda close quarters. If someone is on Sports Book, it would be best to wait it out until finished.


Protection 

7 bolts - shut anchors



Comments on Crack Dealer Add Comment
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By Hillary Davis
Mar 21, 2007

Crux is fun but it's a 3-move wonder. Most of the route is 5.7 jug and ledge paddling.

By susan peplow
From: Phx J-Tree
Jun 9, 2008

Hillary, true that the business is within the first 3 bolts, but it only take one move to make the grade. It may ease on the 1/2 half of the route but if you don't climb .11 you'd likely get shut down on the opening sequences.

Personally, I like this route. I also like that for people trying to break into the grade it's an easy TR set up using Sports Book to the left (the anchors are about 18" apart).

Public Service Announcement: PLEASE USE DRAWS FOR TR's!!!!!!

By Zeke
From: Phoenix
Apr 19, 2009

I guess I don't climb 11! I got shut down on the start and found the start to the 11B just to the right much easier (very quality, fairly sustained climb, btw). I imagine it's one of those routes that climbs much differently on TR, however, since I've noticed my hesitancy to really committ on hard moves close to the ground when semi-shady protection is involved (I feel getting the crux bolt is the crux).