walk @ 150 yds south of EGG on ledge to huge light green arete. Climb past 6 bolts and 3 small nuts to the chain anchors on a small ledge for pitch 1 (5.8). Climb both sides of the arete on the second pitch, past 7 bolts and pro to a large green ledge(crux pitch). 1st 2 pitches combine nicely for 190ft enduro pitch. Finish on an easy crack to top. Rappel route with a 60m rope.
Just did the first two pitches, combined as one... lots of bolts and three gear placements ran almost the full length of my 60m. Crux is techincal, airy, well protected, and very exposed. Amazing line, totally classic!!
Did this last week with a couple of Flagstaffers. We all led it as one pitch. One of the best routes I've done in a long time. My only peeve it having to bring a rack for a couple of gear placements on what is otherwise a sport route. Seems king of silly to me. I mean it's not like you gotta "step up" to lead the thing cause it as some "gear". Drill a few extra bolts and call it sport. There are plenty of trad lines people can scratch up there cams on. Just my opinion.
Jimbo, this route is a "mixed" type route. Please appreciate these type of climbs. I for one hate seeing bolted cracks, even only short sections of them. As you said, there are plenty of pure trad and pure sport routes around. It's refreshing to come across the few crag(not Grade III or longer)mixed routes. Many props to the developers of this area to have adopted this style.
No it's a sport route with two places you can put some gear. You may call that mixed I don't. I put up routes that are mixed all the time. I.E. just as many gear placements as bolts or ideally more gear than bolts. Your doing nothing but massaging your own ego by making someone carry a whole rack to put in two pieces a gear somewhere along an endless line of bolts.
... and saving yourself money. I didn't mind the gear section, just take a few cams from finger size to 0.75 camalot. You should be bringing a rack when you go to Iso anyway...
Great route...having to make a few gear placements adds to the fun and excitement. Never place bolts near cracks or seams that accept gear! Routes should never be retro-bolted, so leave it as it is. 5 stars!!! Kudos to the first ascensionists!
Main Wall - South
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