I had the worst experince on this climb. I very much do not like this part of the mountain. And yes very greasy and I think Just like much else on the mountain, this climb is snadbaged
I've heard this thing can feel pretty greasy on a warm day and Paul says "thin hands" above, but I did it on a cool day, have fat hands and thought it was friggin' fantastic. Althought I thought the first pitch was fairly sandbagged (at 9+ or whatever), I wouldn't say this pitch (at 5.10) is not reasonable for the grade. Completely my opinion.
First time I did this, full sun, hexes and green chouinards, felt like 5.11 (not that many hard cracks either) 2nd time, it felt like a cruise. 3rd time it seemed pretty stiff considering what I'd remembered.
Nothing like sandbagging oneself.
Greg, aren't there thin hands in the crux, what, 15 feet up or so? Or do you get finger locks ?
I just remember loving the jams and being sort of surprised they were as good as I was getting considering I'd heard it was a little tight. Full disclosure: I was following the pitch and that's the only time I've done it. Need to get on it again and see if it's gotten harder (or I've gotten softer).