This is a great hidden pitch above the third pitches of Granite jungle and Chieu Hoi. Climb the thin right facing corner past a fixed nut, then get ready for the business. follow a thin crack up a sloping ledge (funky), then pull a little roof with really thin fingers and bust to the top. Lots of fun and well protected, link it up with Granite Jungle or Chieu Hoi.
Steve Grossman and I were told about this by Scott Baxter and thought we were bagging the first ascent. Even named it, Upon Bathing at Baxter's. Alas, we'd been scooped by months by those Colorado boys.
There didn't use to be a fixed nut on it.
Don't think this climb seems much traffic. It's a bit hidden but well worth your effort to seek it out.
Kyle, off the flying buttress ? Maybe if you went down Coke Bottle, then up Deep Yogurt you'd be able to access it, but the pitch is really up above Chue Hoi. Don't see how you'd access that off of the FB. What am I missing?
I think it is really right above Delphinia Lightning Ass that seems like the most direct link up. And I do think you can get to the base of Sly's from any where on top.
Yes, DLA is probably the most direct and best way to get there.
I think now that what Kyle was trying to say was you can access it from any climb on the cliff's right side. As I recall, you can probably get to this by walking down from above. It's on one of the small upper headwalls?
It's no where near the Flying Buttress, in terms of linked pitches.
Paul, I meant anything to the right of the flying buttress, although it seemed like I said on the right side of the buttress. We did Dreamweaver all the way through then walked up to Sly's Idea. I simply meant it is a short walk over to add a pitch when you top out on the right side somewhere.
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