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Falling Ross 

5.10

   

FA: FA: Larry & Beckey Treiber, 1969 FFA (P1): Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom, 1973 FFA(P2): David Anderson, Robert Crawford, 1974
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 300 feet
Season: Spring or Fall
Views: 371 page views

Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 15, 2007


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Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>

Pitch 2 beautiful granite splitter


Description 

Falling Ross is an excellent natural line that offers pretty good protection, but some mental edge as well. It may feel quite challenging if you're just stepping up to the grade.

P1: 150 feet, 5.9+
Start just right of the Flying Buttress where it intersects the main wall (same corner as for Coke Bottle). Climb up and right, taking a sort of "stairstep" flake on the right that turns into a crack system. Continue as it goes vertical (rock gets slick!) and make a burly reach to the left. Follow the crack up and to the right, where it angles up to a nice ledge system (Froggy Botttom Ledge). Belay here.

P2: 90 feet, 5.10b
Move left on the ledge about 15' to an incredible looking hand crack running straight up the wall. Climb this crack to the top. There will be some discontinuous crack systems you climb in the last 15 feet or so to the belay. Sweeet! If you can, do this route on a relatively cool day. The crack gets pretty greasy-feeling on hot days and it may feel much harder.

Continue to the top up the brushy ramp behind the route from here. 3rd-4th class. Rope up.


Location 

The route starts where the right side of the Flying Buttress meets the main wall (same as for Coke Bottle).


Protection 

Gear to 2". Doubles probably a good idea.



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By rickd
Jun 16, 2007

there is also a thin crack that could be considered pitch 3, 5.10a off the ledge above the top of 2nd pitch.

I've different experiences with this route. Pitch 1 I've done once, and it was pretty hard. Pitch 2, I've done 3x and never had an issue, but the last time I touched it I bailed off 10-12' up. Very slick and not secure.

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.10b

Double set of cams to #2BD is nice for this route. Upper crack favors smaller hands but the feet are bomber the whole way- good test of crack climbing abilities. Route would get 4 stars if the first pitch was more sustained.

By Jake Hutchins
Nov 11, 2009

There is a more sustained pitch one variation, I think it is pretty solid 5.10. instead of angling right about half way up you trend a little bit more left and up 2 discontinuous crack systems.