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The Easy Chair 

5.9-

   

FA: Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 581 page views

Submitted By: rickd on May 11, 2007


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Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>

The start of the line. The route goes up and to t...


Description 

originally rated 5.8 (in RR's), then upgraded to 5.9-, the grade of the route varies from day to day, and sometimes feels into the lower 5.10's. The key is it is a strenuous lie-back. Fine gear once established, a real Granite Mountain must do.


Location 

the farthest right dihedral before the descent gully.


Protection 

stoppers, double set camming devices to 4"



Comments on The Easy Chair Add Comment
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By clackmon
Nov 18, 2008

for the onsight, i'd call it granite mt 9+

and don't do it in july or it will feel like 10c

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.9-

Be careful of rope drag when protecting the early roof- it will be paralyzing later on. Gear is 2x from green alien to #3 BD. Shoes for the walk off are really nice.

By Paul Davidson
Nov 11, 2009

You don't see this done very often, at least I haven't.
Done it twice on lead and seen one party TR it.
Bit of a long walk for one pitch...
Good pitch to do on your way down from the top and you're not done yet.
Or after a hang at the front port.
It's somewhat unique for the Mnt.

Over the years, I've heard many folks call this a sandbag.
It's certainly got it's moments.
It's not what you want to stick a rookie 5.9 leader on.
Maybe cams reduce the error factor since it's a lot easier to plug and pray one of those than a wired stopper.

Piece of history, I once asked Baxter about the name.
He just looked at me and said:

"What do you do in an Easy Chair ?"

uhhh I don't know, sleep? drink beer? watch baseball?
oh, duhhh, You .....

By Greg Opland
Administrator
Nov 11, 2009

I did it not once, but twice in October. It was sooo good. First time I'd done it in ten years.

At one time, I would have called it 10a, but I've decided GM 5.9 is accurate. Pro is actually pretty good on the entire route, just might put the leader in a position of either getting gear or making it through the crux "easy chair" section.