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The Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux) 

5.10

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 3 pitches
Season: July-Feb
Views: 95 page views

Submitted By: ccmski on Nov 7, 2009


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Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Hotline links the first pitch of the Nose to the 2nd pitch of Cat's Pajamas to the final pitch of Reunion- a striking line up the Flying Buttress

p1: Climb a scrub oak fifteen feet until you can make difficult face moves to gain the crack system. OW and jam through the awkward pod into a flared crack going from tight hands to fingers. Move left through the quartz band to the base of the steep flare- belay here (5.10)

p2: Climb the flare which is wide and gently overhanging at first to steep hands with some face features. When the crack Y's, go left along the seam with sparse protection. Contemplate the step across over the Said and Done corner to get to the base of the Reunion pitch- belay here (5.8)

p3: Climb the exquisite finger crack straight in until the crack angles up and right. Follow this to the top- belay using higher cracks (5.10-)

descend through the hole with a minor downclimb to gain ledge access to the Coke Bottle Raps. 1 60m rope will get you to the ground in 2 raps from here. Otherwise, continue across the Flying Buttress to finish up Beaver Cleaver or High Exposure exit. From the top, you will need a 70m or 2 ropes to complete the first rappel without doing the cam trick.


Location 

From the Front Porch, locate the crack that is staring directly at you on the front of the Flying Buttress


Protection 

Single black and blue alien, 2x from green alien to #2BD, single #3 & 3.5 BD



Comments on The Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux) Add Comment
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By KyleKent
Nov 7, 2009

Spectacular, sustained link up. Highly recommended. The beta from ccmski is right on.

By Paul Davidson
Nov 11, 2009

Hiccup Delux ?
Wonder where cramer got that, it was always the Hotline as far back as I can remember.

One of the best "moderate" routes up the FB.
Of course, anything ending on Reunion is a classic.

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
6 days ago

Anyone have any idea about the FA of this linkup?

By Greg Opland
Administrator
6 days ago

No idea about the FA, but an easy one to come up with if you got the skills to climb all the parts and pieces.

Seems like a long time back, I also heard it referred to as "The Grand Slam", but maybe I dreamt it.

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
2 days ago

Greg- I've also seen this referred to as "The Grand Slam" on another forum, but that's all I know about that...