This route climbs the easy slab just left of Coatimundi Whiteout's start.
Pitch 1: 5.7 - Climb the easy slab to a ledge belay (3-4" cams). Pitch 2: 5.9 R/X - Climb off the ledge to the right heading up towards a bolt about 25 feet up. Follow 3 horrible bolts (probably won't hold lead falls) for 130 feet to the top of Kingpin's second pitch.
Pitch 3: 5.7 R - Climb the face just right of Kingpin's 3rd pitch. There are no bolts but you can place a couple cams low in the crack.
Pitch 4: 5.9+ - Kingpin's 4th Pitch (other variations possible, we traversed right to end up under the Great Roof and go out Candyland.)
Pitch 5: 5.10 - Climb up and left to a short, beautiful overhanging green corner.
Location
Start just left of Coatimundi Whiteout (second bolted line to left)
Protection
Pitch 1 is easy but no protection really. Pitch 2 is runout and the bolts are garbage: take caution. The rest is adequately protected.
According to topos by Waugh, Black and Cramer, the pitch (second or third, depending on how you do it) that heads off from the same belay as the second of Kingpin, traverses across right and up to the nice jamming flake/crack (same as the one you climb if you traverse left out from Coatimundi), then traverse back left (bolt) to the belay as for the third pitch of Kinpin. Pro for that crack is #1 - #3 Camalot size and plentiful.
FWIW (and you may already have done it), that fourth pitch of Kingpin is pretty cool.
p2 is correct and is really all that is important about the route. Legend has it the leader was trippin balls on the FA. It belays at the big crack on Kingpin above that route's crux. On the 3rd, Greg is right, you climb the crack, traverse right, climb that crack, and then traverse back left.
the "last pitch" is really just an end variation to right (rated 5.11a on Rand Black's map 1990). Everything goes up the green corner (Sorcerer, Kingpin, Cin-girl, Once in Blue Moon, Blowin' (?))
Greg is wrong on the 4th pitch of Kingpin only being "pretty cool" it is "waaayy cool"
Thanks for the info Greg and Rick. I did this route a week or two ago with a friend (always trying to tick off new ones) and I was pretty confused on the third pitch, never would of guessed it would have joined with Coatimundi's flake. I guess I can say this much though, climbing the face in between the two cracks of Kingpin and Coati is pretty enjoyable, more of the same edging and crimping of pitch 2.
I'm actually planning to go re-equip the bolts on the second pitch with some nice new ones that will actually hold a fall. Hopefully this climb can get traveled a bit more because the climbing was actually very fun on the run-out pitch.
BTW: I totally agree guys, pitch 4 of Kingpin is sensational. Having already done it a few times each we opted for something new and made the traverse from Kingpin's ledge to under the Great Roof, probably about 5.7 or 5.8 with fine protection.
Might want to get in touch with Prescott locals Bill Cramer or Bob Jensen about the bolt replacement. We were all tossing around the idea of getting them swapped out this season.
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