This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Granite Mountain page.
Description
p1, 5.9 crack and flake system leads to main Sorcerer ledge. p2, An unknown party had made the hard moves up the crack, shallow corner and bailed off once bolts were required. Hard climbing up mostly thin but solid pro leads to a sling belay. p3, meandering face climbing leads past 5 bolts to a crux "inches" short of the thin ledge leading right to the shared belay with Kingpin. This 5.10 climbing is fully 20' out from last bolt but is an all clean fall if you blow it. p4, links a feature crack/groove (5.11-) to the crux fist move at the great roof on Coatimundi. p5, leads up to summit.
Location
Right of Sorcerer corner, left of Kingpin corner are the 2nd and 3rd pitches.
Protection
brass nuts and standard GM rack- travel light on p3 lead!!!!
I watched Waugh and Pasta do pitch 2 and 3 on a typical windy day in April 1986. Frank in usual fashion had very little climbing that year (from his manager job at Price Club) and jugged the second pitch. He did manage to free the 3rd, but laughed at how Waugh had run the sucker out. Years later another leader relayed the fear factor of that 3rd pitch- kinda pants filling.
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