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The Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU) 

5.12-

   

FA: FA A.3, 5.8 Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom 1/71, FFA (var pitch 1) Jim Waugh et al 6/86
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12- [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II
Season: seasonal closures
Views: 489 page views

Submitted By: rickd on Sep 3, 2007


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Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

aid start: climb a short system to a flake to step up and gain the thin crack. This goes clean at C.2, then more brass nuts lead to belay at easy flakes at horizontal system 130' up.
free start, first freed by Ray Ringle in 1981 @ 5.11, the start climbs a thin crack to face moves past bolts (Jim Waugh installed spring 1986) to some good face climbing (5.10) to belay 130'.
p2, easy climbing leads up 50' to the first face crux (5.11) then more balanced moves lead to right facing palming lieback corner protected on RP's and suspect pin (5.12-). p3 often done with Slammer Jam climbs a steep LB corner to roof (10) or step right to flake (also 10-) to summit.


Location 

Right of the great roof is an obvious arete. Right of this arete are the thin cracks of GBU.


Protection 

RP's and standard GM rack



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By rickd
Sep 3, 2007

Jim Waugh and I climbed from the top of Crack Lover's into the system via a 5.11- variation with one pin in April 1986. Waugh broke 2 RP's while trying to free p2 that day (I meanwhile suffered at belay wearing new Calma II shoes- what crap they were). Bill Hatcher, Leo Hanson and Chris Raypole assisted with Waugh's free ascent of pitch 2 in June, 1986.